The living past

A journey into po¯tiki’s history

Located at the opening of the Waimea Estuary and just 30 minutes’ drive along the Coastal Highway from Nelson, Ma¯pua Wharf is well worth making the short detour off the main road.

Pretty, laid-back, and full of art and good things to eat and drink, it’s hard now to imagine its industrial heyday. For 40 busy years, millions of cases of apples, strawberries, and other fruits grown in the region were trundled across the wharf to be shipped to Nelson and, from there, around the world.

Things went quiet in the 1950s, but the town of Māpua is still focused on, and protective of, its wharf. Its original buildings, some dating back a century, have been repurposed as galleries, boutiques and restaurants. They, and the river and estuary, are a magnet for visitors and locals.

Why go?

Because Māpua means ‘‘abundance’’, and it’s as true now as it was when the name was chosen more than a century ago, referencing the richly productive soils of the Waimea plains.

Whether you’re intent on nourishing the body or the spirit, you’ll find what you want here: strikingly original paintings, pottery and sculpture in the galleries, delicious food in the cafes, bars and restaurants, locally-produced icecreams, quirky items in the gift shops, and even a shop dedicated to straw hats. Don’t miss the little maritime museum, which has a great display of historical photographs.

Fish off the wharf, or jump from it into the sea and, if you want even more exercise, hire some wheels from the bike shop, get on board the little ferry, and go across the river to Rabbit Island to cycle along the tracks or swim at the beaches.

Insider tip

Grab a window seat in The Apple Shed, so you can watch people riding the tide as you enjoy a crisp rose and something to eat. Or, tuck into fish and chips from The Smokehouse, as you dangle your feet over the wharf.

On the way/nearby

You’re a 15-minute drive from Motueka, so mosey along there to visit the Pethybridge Rose Garden or, for something more exotic, the pretty Kiyosato Japanese Gardens.

If it’s low tide, wander out on to the sand to inspect the historic wreck of the Janie Seddon. Try out the Motueka Saltwater Baths or, for a range of delicious treats, cycle Tasman’s Great Taste Trail, which runs between here and Nelson.

How much?

Free, but good luck not buying something to consume or admire. Even the museum (open 9am-4pm) is free to enter, though a gold coin donation would be appreciated.

Best time to go

There’s plenty to enjoy in the summer, but the Maāpua Easter Fair is huge in the local calendar. mapuawharf.co.nz