A Northland history mission
Perched on a hill overlooking Hokianga Harbour, on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail, the Ma¯ngungu Mission is a neat and satisfyingly symmetrical cottage that has a big history for a building so small.
Built in 1838 by the multitalented Wesleyan, Reverend John Hobbs, it was the venue for the second, and largest, signing of the Treaty of Waitangi on February 12, 1840. In a rare gathering, nearly 80 chiefs came together for long discussions, interpreted by Hobbs, with Governor William Hobson.
Then came the signing, which was witnessed by 3000 people. Inside, you can see a copy of the Treaty, lying on the actual, if spindly, mahogany table where the original was signed on that momentous day.
Much of the furniture is original too, and there is an interesting collection of items, including Hobbs’ tenon saw, a bowl he used for christening children, and a magnificent reproduction of a korowai(cloak) that was gifted to one of the missionaries. Outside, in the cemetery, are the oldest gravestones in the country.
Why go?
Because, as if the Treaty signing isn’t significant enough, Ma¯ngungu was also the site of the first pub in New Zealand (although it wasn’t licensed).
Less cheerfully, the first execution in the country took place here, on low-lying Ruapapaka Island nearby, scrubby and uninhabited except for the murderer’s grave. An argument over a local ferry fare led to a passenger’s murder and the first trial of its kind in New Zealand.
There are more firsts to learn about from the enthusiastic people at the Mission House: honey bees were introduced here by Hobbs’ sister Mary Bumby, who brought two straw hives with her from Britain. The bees did well, and Ma¯ori became the first commercial beekeepers. The country’s first Post Office was set up at Ma¯ngungu – it took 143 days for a letter to get to London – and, though it’s hard to believe now, with Hokianga looking so beautifully peaceful, the first shipyard was located here.
Insider tip
The building is well-travelled. It was later moved to Onehunga to be used as a parsonage then a house, before being returned to the site in the 1970s and restored.
On the way/nearby
Back towards Paihia, there’s more historic architecture at Waimate North, where the Mission House, Anglican this time, is grander. It’s quiet now, but was once a hive of activity. It sits in a lovely garden, surrounded by the only bit of New Zealand scenery Charles Darwin admired.
How much?
Adults $10, children (up to 18) $3.50, students $5 – special events may cost more. Open Saturday-Monday 10am-4pm, three guided tours are scheduled daily.
Best time to go
The Mission House is scheduled to reopen this weekend. Consider timing your visit to coincide with the Tiriti Commemorations on February 12, a day of karakia, ko¯rero and kai.