A town with a confronting past
po¯tiki’s main street holds stories from the past that are grim reminders of some of our darkest days and a symbol of hope for the future.
A stone’s throw from each other are Hiona St Stephen’s Church and po¯tiki Museum, a repository of memorabilia that stretches over several buildings and three floors.
This Eastern Bay of Plenty town was the scene of a gruesome murder, in 1865, of Anglican missionary Reverend Carl Volkner.
Pai Ma¯rire rebels had arrived in town. Volkner was accused of spying for the Crown. He was hanged, then taken inside his church, where he was decapitated and his blood drunk from the communion chalice.
Crown revenge was swift and devastating. There was an invasion by colonial forces, and 35 Ma¯ori were killed in the largest battle. Martial law was declared, crops and livestock looted and, ultimately, 448,000 acres (181,300 hectares) of land were confiscated from three tribes, Whakato¯hea, Ngai Tu¯hoe and Nga¯ti Awa.
History is often confronting, raw and bruising for all concerned and, for many, the pain is still very real. The church is a Category 1 historic place, and remains a visible reminder that the consequences of history continue to this day.
Even so, many settler descendants and tangata whenua are now joined through shared whakapapa.
If visitors find the church open, respectful visits
including replicas of a whaler’s hut, a ship’s cabin, rooms depicting early pioneer homes, and an art deco eraO¯drawing room. po¯tiki has many wellpreserved art deco buildings.
On¯Othe museum’s ground floor an Arctic bear, moose and salmon are an unexpected surprise. Local hunting legend, Piki Amoamo, was asked to do some culling in Alaska. Later, a container arrived at the museum with the results of his work.
The museum extends further down the road to Shalfoon & Francis Museum. This was a general store for more than 100 years, with everything from horseshoes to haberdashery. It closed in 2000 when the last owner, George Shalfoon, retired at 84. Everything has been preserved as it was the day the store closed.
For me, it is a walk down memory lane. I are welcome to this now carved and tukutukuremember going there as a teenager, and it was panelled slice of history. They are part of the many like a museum then, a place to buy sunlight soap acts of healing and reconciliation over the years. and wooden pegs.
Across the road, manager Dot Wilson, and a Seven or so Shalfoons came to New Zealand band of volunteers, are history keepers at the local from Lebanon in the 1890s, and at one stage five museum on the site of the former stables for the had businesses in town. When the store closed, a neighbouring Masonic Hotel. local man bought the building and donated it to the
This end of town is like a trip back in time. It museum, so the Shalfoon legacy lives on. has a different¯isOfeel.IoncedrovethroughherewithThisblockofChurchSt po¯tiki’s historic an American visitor who shrieked and demanded heart. It also holds the 1926 art deco movie theatre, to be let out of the car to explore. run by volunteers, and many other beautiful art
The museum’s top floor contains taonga and deco era buildings along the main street. The stories of the Whakato¯hea tribe. district is best known for beaches, bush and rivers,
It shares space with 12 heritage rooms, but this historic precinct is well worth exploring.