Islands are a dream
That is what they are... a dream come true. Unable to escape too far afield, Aotearoa still offers a number of gorgeous destinations to get away to ‘‘overseas’’, writes Pamela Wade.
‘I’m holidaying overseas this summer’’ may currently seem as fictitious a sentence as ‘‘I really enjoyed the Olympics this year’’, but it is possible, even now. What’s more, you get a choice about what sort of holiday that might be, depending on which offshore island you head to.
Tiritiri Matangi Basic, with birds
It’s 75 minutes by ferry from Auckland city to the island, and you need to come prepared with your own food and drink, sleeping bag and towel.
You also have to share your space, as the only accommodation is in a bunkhouse, where the rooms sleep 4-6 people.
Though the facilities aren’t fancy, you’ll find everything you need in the shared kitchen and bathrooms.
Outside is where the real rewards lie: patches of luxuriant virgin forest and many hectares of laboriously replanted and now thriving bush, where you will see rare species of bird that include kiwi, takahe¯, tı¯eke and hihi, as well as tuatara and giant we¯ta¯.
There are inviting paths all over the island, gorgeous views, sandy beaches, and even a historic lighthouse and watch tower, as well as a visitor centre and shop for souvenirs.
The dawn chorus is a marvel, and well worth the early alarm call. See tiritirimatangi.org.nz.
Waiheke Laid-back or luxurious
A 35-minute ferry ride from Auckland’s central city, Waiheke offers a wide variety of accommodation, from a luxury lodge to backpackers.
The overall vibe is friendly and relaxed, and while most visitors’ attention is understandably focused on outdoor activities, the arts are important here too.
Galleries in Oneroa village and around the island show off all manner of talents and skill, from painting to leatherwork, pottery and jewellery.
There’s an excellent musical museum, with some rare instruments, where performances are regularly scheduled. There’s also a theatre, boutique cinema and a scattering of outdoor artworks.
You can get around by bus, bike, scooter, or car, and be adventurous with ziplines and archery, or take it easy on sandy beaches, world-famous wineries and excellent restaurants.
There are tours by bus, boat, horse, Segway, snorkel, and kayak, and a whole range of walks to enjoy, including one to a wartime gun emplacement. See tourismwaiheke.co.nz.
Rotoroa History and home comforts
It’s 75 minutes by ferry to Rotoroa from Auckland central, but feels like a trip back in time.
For more than a century the island was a Salvation Army addiction treatment centre, and it has a powerful history that’s still apparent in its buildings, which include a set of jail cells.
The story is told well in the museum but, as ranger Milly Crawford explains at the start of the guided tour, the island’s rehabilitation focus has altered: now it’s about caring for young
kiwi and takahe¯ ahead of their release to independence back in the wild on the mainland.
Overnighting allows a proper appreciation of birds, beaches and the island’s revegetation success.
Staying in well-equipped, comfortable and private houses, and bringing just your own food and drink, you could luxuriate in what would be total tranquillity, if it weren’t for the weka, pu¯keko, frogs, oystercatchers, takahe¯ and, come nightfall, kiwi, all loudly making their presence known. See rotoroa.org.nz.
Aotea Great Barrier Isolated independence
It’s a 41⁄ 2- hour car ferry trip from Auckland city, or a 30-minute flight, to an island that is proudly selfsufficient.
One day, the population might reach four figures, but for now it’s small enough for everyone – who wants to – to know each other.
Accommodation ranges from campsites and DOC huts to beach houses and lodges so elegant you could almost forget that everything here is off-grid and eco-friendly.
Dodgy internet reception becomes a bonus, encouraging focus on the island’s many natural attractions: long, sandy beaches; good surfing and fishing; bush walks; hot springs; and even a mountain to climb.
Get close to the birds at the Glenfern Sanctuary, a museum for finding out about the island’s surprisingly lively history; more busy artists than you would reasonably expect; a choice of places to eat if you don’t fancy cooking your own food from the supermarket; and, at night, a dazzle of stars in this Dark Sky Sanctuary. See greatbarrier.co.nz.
Ka¯piti Kiwi and manaakitanga
Getting to Ka¯piti is the start of the fun, climbing into a boat on the beach at Paraparaumu and bouncing across to the island, 20 minutes away (unless there’s a dolphin detour).
The guided tour covers some busy human history, as well as an introduction to the wildlife that has flourished since the island was declared a reserve in 1897.
It boasts so many kiwi pukupuku (little spotted kiwi) now that they’re exported back to the mainland. You may spot them, and probably hear them at night, especially if instead of the cabins or bach, you stay in one of the comfortable tents.
You’ll certainly hear the korora¯ (little blue penguins) under the wooden floor there.
The hospitality in the lodge is welcoming, with a strong Ma¯ori flavour, and the shared meals are a highlight after a day spent climbing 521-metre Tuteremoana for great views, watching hihi feeding, spotting takahe¯ and ka¯ka¯, or poking around the coast. See kapitiisland.com.
Rakiura/Stewart Island Nature and nurture
Ferrying over Foveaux Strait can be an hour-long ordeal but it’s only 20 minutes by air, which also shows you how big the island is, and how limited the human impact.
Most of the island is national park, and there is only 27km of road, but there’s comfort as well as raw nature.
Around Oban the full range of accommodation is on offer, from bunks to king-size beds, selfcatered or hosted, and you can eat out or in.
The South Sea Hotel is a social focus, and the museum and cinema are worth a visit.
Mostly though, you’ll be out and about, admiring the clear, blue sea washing on to sandy beaches, spotting bird life in the bush and even around town, and exploring by bus, ebike or tuk tuk.
There are easy and challenging walks, islands to visit, fish to catch, sailing and snorkelling, and a thousand photos to take. See stewartisland.co.nz.