The spectacular Heaphy and beyond
Kahurangi maybeavery young national park, but its treasures date from long ago, writes Brett Atkinson.
AGreat Walk adventure combines with limestone landscapes dating back millions of years on the northwestern edge of the South Island. The 4529-square-kilometre Kahurangi National Park was established in 1996. One apt Ma¯ori translation of Kahurangi is ‘‘treasured possession’’.
Why go
Linking the Golden Bay region and the West Coast, one of New Zealand’s most popular Great Walks is the highlight of the country’s second-largest national park.
Remote Tasman Sea beaches and idiosyncratic limestone formations feature along the 78km route of the Heaphy Track, while there’s more spectacular karst scenery in the park’s southern region near Karamea.
Embark on the Heaphy’s comprehensive tramping adventure, or take a short riverside stroll to the Oparara Basin’s natural landscapes dating back 35 million years.
There’s also diversity in the park’s flora and fauna. More than 80 per cent of the park is densely forested, with a huge range of alpine and subtropical vegetation represented. The 60 bird species include kiwi, and the endangered whio and takahe¯.
At the ends of Heaphy Track, easygoing Ta¯kaka, Collingwood and Karamea are relaxed spots to prepare for the walk, or relax at the end of it.
When to go
Unlike some other Great Walks in New Zealand, the Heaphy Track is open year-round.
The warmest and driest months are usually from December to April, and walking the track is popular at Easter. The weather in Kahurangi National Park can be changeable throughout the year, and trampers should be properly equipped with clothing suitable for wet, cold and windy conditions, especially for the track’s sub-alpine sections.
The Heaphy Track is also open to mountain bikers from May to November. Visiting the Oparara Basin is possible year-round, but December to April sees the best weather.
What to do
Usually taking four to five days, the Heaphy offers scenery and experiences include tussocky plains, native forests, and remote beaches fringed by nı¯kau palms.
The track can be walked in either direction. It’s recommended to begin in the northeast at Brown Hut, as this route conveniently knocks off most of the uphill slog on day one, and completes the experience with a spectacular beach walk.
Highlights en route include the spectacular subalpine landscape of the Gouland Downs, an ‘‘enchanted forest’’ combination of limestone arches and moss-cloaked beech trees, and the opportunity to see endangered takahe¯, or hear the after-dark calls of the roroa (great spotted kiwi).
The Heaphy Bus is a convenient shuttle service providing trailhead transfers at both ends of the Heaphy Track, with pickups and dropoffs possible in Nelson, Motueka, Kaiteriteri (for Abel Tasman National Park, Ta¯kaka and Collingwood. Check the website for seasonal days of service from midNovember to the end of April. Shuttle services for the Heaphy Track run daily from Boxing Day to January 10.
Other transport options linking to the track’s two trailheads, a distance by road of 463km, include flights and local shuttles.
See heaphytrack.com for detailed track notes and comprehensive transport information.
To join a guided walk on the track, contact Ta¯kaka-based Kahurangi Guided Walks.
Other more challenging options in the park include the Wangapeka Track (four to six days, 59km), and full-day and overnight tramps in the Cobb Valley and Mt Arthur areas.
In the southern reaches of the national park is another destination easily accessed by most travellers. About 45 minutes’ drive north of Karamea, the Oparara Basin is a 35 million yearold landscape of limestone arches and caves. The area’s essential sight is the 200-metre-long, 37m-high Oparara Arch, easily reached on a riverside trail (45 minutes, 2km return).
Keep an eye out for New Zealand’s rare whio (blue duck). Other short walks include to the compact lake at Mirror Tarn and through native bush to the Mo¯ria Gate Arch. To book for guided tours, including exploring Honeycomb Hills Cave and Arch, see oparara.co.nz.
Accommodation
Accommodation along the Heaphy Track is in the Department of Conservation’s Great Walks seven huts and nine campsites, which must be booked in advance on greatwalks.co.nz.
Bookings are not needed for the Ko¯haihai campsite at the southern end of the track.
Ten minutes’ north of Ta¯kaka, Patons Rock Beach Villas are a good-value option, and Waitapu Springs B&B is conveniently at the northern edge of town. The Collingwood Park Motel has modern, central units, while in Karamea, the Last Resort has a diverse range of eco-built accommodation from backpacker dorms to self-contained twobedroom cottages.
Location
New Zealand’s second-largest national park sits in the northwest of the South Island. The Golden Bay towns of Ta¯kaka and Collingwood are nearest to the recommended start point at Brown Hut for the Heaphy Track.
Air New Zealand has flights to Nelson from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, from where it is 98km to Ta¯kaka and 124km to Collingwood.
The nearest town to the southern trailhead at Ko¯haihai is Karamea, the most convenient location to explore the Oparara Basin. From Karamea, it’s 97km south to Westport. Sounds Air flies from Westport to Wellington, and Air New Zealand flies to Christchurch from Hokitika.
Gateway town
Infused with an alternative lifestyle vibe, Takaka is a relaxed spot to stay before embarking on the Heaphy Track.
The Dangerous Kitchen is the best place for wood-fired pizza, healthy snacks, and Tasman region craft beer from Hop Federation. The venison and wild goat burgers at Roots Bar are also recommended, and don’t leave town without sampling locally distilled gin and vodka at Ta¯kaka’s Dancing Sands Distillery.
Down the road in even smaller Collingwood, grab breakfast and a coffee at the arty MAD Cafe (‘‘Make a Difference’’), before setting off for the Heaphy Track trailhead at Brown Hut.
In Karamea, the Karamea Village Hotel is the go-to destination for a hearty roast dinner and a few beers. The best coffee in town is at Vinnie’s Cafe. Try the fair-trade and organic Kahurangi Sunrise blend from Kawatiri Coffee Roasting in Westport.