A rural Catlins idyll
Natalie Crockett finds herself in a Narnia-esque fantasy land where even a snow bombcan’t put a damper on the fun.
When CS Lewis wrote about the castle of Cair Paravel, set on its hill with ‘‘bluish-green waves breaking forever and ever’’ on the beach below, he must have imagined a place just like Otago’s Pu¯ra¯kaunui Bay.
Thankfully, you won’t need a lion, a witch or a wardrobe to get there.
While the castle in the 2005 Chronicles of Narnia film was a computer-generated image, the cliffs it was superimposed on to are very real.
The best way to explore this spectacular piece of coastline is during a stay at Skylark Bed and Breakfast, a small piece of Narnia run by third-generation farmer Karl Burgess and his wife Melanie.
The place
Perched high on a hill with postcardworthy views of Catlins Lake and the wild Pacific Ocean beyond, it’s no surprise its namesake birds, and the Burgess family, chose this as their home.
Built four years ago, the accommodation is at the heart of the family’s 566.6-hectare sheep and beef farm.
A 15-minute scenic drive from the town of Owaka, and with incredible views in every direction, it’s hard to top this place for the feeling of calm and tranquillity it instils. The only thing likely to wake you in these remote rolling hills is the sound of bleating newborn lambs.
The space
A small but perfectly formed selfcontained unit that sleeps two. It’s attached to the family home but has its own entrance. Elegantly decorated with tasteful furniture and luxurious soft furnishings, it has a super comfy super king bed and is spotlessly clean.
It has a small kitchenette with mini fridge, a good-sized en suite bathroom with walk-in shower, and a small outside deck, perfect for al fresco dining.
But all that almost doesn’t matter because, well, did I mention the view? The panoramic vista is perfectly framed by two large floor-to-ceiling windows. Put down that book you planned to read, you won’t be able to concentrate on it anyway.
The facilities
The beauty of this place is how little there is to do. Uninterrupted peace and quiet is its major selling point, so if you’re looking for somewhere to switch off and unwind, this is the place for you. There’s no TV, but for those who require a little more activity, be sure to join Karl on one of his farm tours, or take Melanie up on her offer of a cup of coffee or a glass of wine next door in their beautiful home.
The food
There are no cooking facilities, but we knew this in advance and took Melanie’s advice to stock up on wine and antipasto on our way there.
For breakfast, there’s a well-stocked tea caddy and a Nespresso machine, along with a selection of cereals, including homemade muesli and fruit. The small fridge is stocked with yoghurt, milk and juice, and there’s an emergency wine supply to buy if guests get caught short.
Stepping out
A 90-minute drive from Dunedin and 1 hour, 50 minutes from Invercargill, Skylark B&B is a great base for exploring The Catlins.
Nearby highlights include The Catlins River-Wisp Loop Track that can be done in parts or as a day tramp, or for those looking for an easy, short bush walk, the pretty Pu¯ra¯kaunui Falls is a popular stop.
Also worth a look, and only a 10-minute car trip away, is the one hourreturn walk to Jack’s Blowhole. This 55-metre-deep hole in the ground formed when the roof of a large subterranean cave was eroded by the sea and collapsed.
The walk begins at Jack’s Bay, where there’s a chance you’ll see sea lions, and rambles through farm land and along the rugged sheer-drop coastline.
Highlight
The hospitality. Melanie won me over early on when she stopped by with some delicious banana and chocolate chip muffins, still warm from the oven.
When we woke to find we were snowed in, thanks to a ‘‘weather bomb’’ hitting large parts of the South Island, a one-night stay turned into three.
The farm tour is a must. You can visit one of the famous locations of the Narnia films, with its vertigo-inducing views. Those interested can also learn about how the farm operates. If you go at the right time of year, you might even get a chance to help feed some of the newest additions.
Lowlight
Light sleepers should note the large picture window doesn’t have curtains. An eye mask is provided, but there is little light pollution in the area.
The verdict
A must for anyone visiting The Catlins.
Essentials
The room is from $210 a night. Visit facebook.com/SkylarkBB/ or book via airbnb.