Ramble along to the Riuwaka Resurgence
This is where the Riuwaka River emerges from its slow, pitch-dark passage through Ta¯kaka Hill, a process that removes all impurities from the water. The deep pool where the water rises into the light is not only crystal clear, but glows a beautiful blue in the dappled sunlight through the surrounding fern-filled beech forest.
The river-smoothed boulders surrounding the pools of emerald water are draped in lime-green moss that makes the kind of shocking contrast in colour that only nature can get away with.
The astonishing clarity of the water makes it hard to judge the depth of the pools. The darkness at the bottom of the resurgence pool, though, where the river first comes out from under the hill, is mesmerisingly sinister.
Why go?
Because it’s such a lovely reward for so little effort. Take State Highway 60 from Motueka towards Ta¯kaka, turn off to drive along the valley between apple orchards, then park and walk for five minutes or so along a track so easy that it’s wheelchair accessible as far as the Crystal Pool with its waterfall.
Climb up the track and there’s a viewing platform at the top pool, and steps down to the water’s edge. Gaze into the water’s black depths, and think about its route through the tunnels and caverns inside the hill.
Storyboards tell how these were explored and mapped in 1963, by five intrepid men with some startlingly primitive equipment. Then just breathe deeply and enjoy the birdsong and tranquillity.
Insider tip
The resurgence is wa¯hi tapu (sacred) to Ma¯ori, as the waters were considered healing, so it’s appreciated if you refrain from swimming there. In any case, even on a hot day, the water is a chilly nine degrees.
On the way/nearby
Back up the hill are Ngarua Caves, where you can take a guided tour into the labyrinth of tunnels that runs through the marble of Ta¯kaka Hill. See all sorts of formations, plus the bones of clumsy moa from 28,000 years ago, and hear some great stories.
Nearby is a lovely 90-minute return walk to spectacular Harwoods Hole. At 357 metres, it’s the deepest vertical shaft in the country. Head to Ma¯rahau to kayak in the sunshine around to Split Apple Rock, or enjoy Kaiteriteri’s classic long golden beach. You can also explore Motueka’s cafe¯s, Japanese gardens and saltwater baths.
How much?
Free. You don’t even need to expend much effort walking along the river to the resurgence.
Best time to go
Choose a sunny day to appreciate the colour and clarity of the water at its best, and to enjoy a picnic on the grassy area near the waharoa (carved archway) at the start of the track. See nelsontasman.nz.