When life throws a curveball... consider steak
Tejas Nikam tells Libby Wilson he was about to return to India when a phone call lead him to launching a steakhouse in Hamilton.
Tejas Nikam wasn’t supposed to be the head chef at Hamilton’s new steakhouse. He, wife Kamini and baby son Shay were supposed to fly back to India in late March, to show off the new addition to their family. ‘‘I quit my job, flights were booked, everything was done. Then Covid hit, and everything just collapsed.’’
After lockdown the family moved to Auckland, hoping they’d be able to fly out after a few months.
Nikam, who is in his mid-30s, laughs at the idea now. While in limbo, he got a call about Paddock to Plate, a new restaurant venture in Hamilton’s main street.
Would he be interested?
‘‘As a Beef + Lamb ambassador, opening a steakhouse is the best thing you can choose,’’ he said.
Owners Leonard Gardner, of Foster Construction, and Lalit Kumar, of Iguana Street Bar & Restaurant, knew just what they wanted.
As well as being a steakhouse – ‘‘Kiwis love steak’’ – Paddock to Plate has strong support from local kaupapa.
‘‘All my meats we’re sourcing locally. Everything is from the Waikato, most of the beverages, even the cheese and stuff, icecreams.’’
There’s tea from Zealong Estate where Nikam got his first New Zealand head chef job, Duck Island icecream, and beer and wines from Lake Karapiro’s Takapoto Estate.
Nikam is all about simple ingredients: forgoing trendy foams in favour of Asian flavours and fresh herbs.
‘‘I think the most important thing is the quality of the product for me. If something you’re getting
on your doorstep is good quality, then you don’t need to go anywhere else.’’
Perhaps unsurprisingly for a Beef + Lamb ambassador at the helm of a steakhouse, he chose to showcase a sirloin in his summer recipe for the Sunday Star-Times.
Paddock to Plate opened in September, after pushing back the date due to Covid-induced uncertainty.
The new venture has slotted straight into a spot local meatlovers may recognise, with its stone features and wooden wall panels and bar.
It’s the former Bluestone Steakhouse site, in a building earmarked for the Waikato Regional Theatre development.
The restaurant is temporary, Nikam said, but those behind the theatre complex have plans to include multiple hospitality options, which piqued his interest.
Paddock to Plate’s best-selling dish so far has a long lead-up.
The signature tomahawk rib eye – 500 grams of steak – spends 18 hours vacuum-packed and cooked sous vide (in a water bath at 56C) before hitting a diner’s plate.
Alongside the menu’s beef offerings, there’s a lamb rack, venison, and chicken – plus sauce, butter, and vegetable side options.
There are Tunisian spices, and an Italian-style cheese in the same dish as a mango version of nam phrik, a Thai dipping sauce.
And vegetarian and vegan diners can try a beetroot risotto featuring flavours such as wasabi mascarpone, or a pumpkin and horopito gnocchi – which can be made with coconut cream.
‘‘When people come, they expect a bloody good steak – but what else can we offer?’’ Nikam said.
Dessert-wise, choices include ‘‘chocolate textures’’ and a miso caramel semifreddo, or Mercer cheeses and handmade chocolates.
Nikam’s honed his culinary skills over the years, through various continents and restaurant jobs.
He has fond memories of his dad’s cooking in Mumbai, and developed a passion for food during hotel management studies.
He studied and worked in London before coming to New Zealand in August 2010, and encountering Peter Gordon.
‘‘That’s life-changing. The things we learned from him are amazing, and everybody knows he’s the greatest chef in New Zealand.’’
Nikam worked with Gordon at Sky Tower restaurant Orbit, then helped set up The Sugar Club, where he shared a kitchen with Michelinstar chefs.
It sparked his interest in fusion food, and gave him a foot in the door for future opportunities.
After Auckland, he was head chef at Zealong Tea Estate, then worked with Sudima to open a five-star hotel in Christchurch.
GRILLED SIRLOIN WITH BABY COS, CHERRY TOMATO AND SALSA VERDE Ingredients
250g sirloin steak
5 cherry tomatoes
6-8 leaves of baby cos
Aioli, salt and pepper – as required
Salsa verde
15g basil leaves
50g mint leaves
30g parsley
Zest and juice of one lemon 25g capers
15g Dijon mustard
2 cloves of garlic 180ml olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Method
Blend all ingredients for salsa verde in a blender and season with salt and pepper.
To assemble, leave the steak at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before cooking.
Season with salt, pepper and olive oil and cook on the grill plate, or pan sear if you don’t have a grill. Cook the steak for three minutes on each side for a perfect medium. Then rest for three to four minutes before cutting into strips.
Make a bed of baby cos lettuce and cherry tomatoes. Arrange the sirloin strips on the plate and drizzle with three tablespoons of salsa verde and olive oil. Season with salt, pepper, and dots of aioli.