Scenic wonder at every turn
I’ve just finished a 106-day road trip around New Zealand, and I can say one thing with confidence – the five million people who are in New Zealand right now are the luckiest human beings on Earth.
We are quarantined in paradise, and despite driving more than 11,500 kilometres – roughly the distance from Auckland to Mongolia’s capital Ulaanbaatar – I feel like there is so much more to see.
Let’s get straight to what many want to know: what was the best thing?
Although I loved every region, I’m not going to be paralysed with indecision and say I can’t decide. The South Island is my favourite place, and there is one road trip to rule them all. It offers mountains, untouched beaches, rare wildlife, lush rainforest, and towns that are full of rustic charm.
It’s called the Southern Scenic Route. I’m not sure who named it that, but they deserve a Guinness World Record for underselling one of the most breathtaking road trips on the planet.
This 610-kilometre journey starts in Queenstown, meanders down Lake Wakatipu before flirting with Fiordland.
It then weaves through the lesser-known gems of Western Southland and some unexpected delights in Invercargill. The journey continues through The Catlins, before ending at the Edinburgh of the South: Dunedin.
This five-day journey (though it can take more or less time) was the highlight of my road trip, and here’s what you can’t miss.
Queenstown
I recommend starting the trip in Queenstown rather than Dunedin because landing in our mountain capital is one of the world’s best flights.
At this time of year, the mountains have an exciting array of summer activities on offer. At Cardrona, you’ll find the southern hemisphere’s only mountain carting track. This is like an off-road version of the luge: hook your cart to the chairlift and head to the top, then race back down.
The scenic switchback road weaving up to The Remarkables Conservation Area is a spectacular drive to start your journey, and there are plenty of short walks to explore this quintessential part of Queenstown’s landscape.
It’s also an excellent time to grab some summer deals, such as $150 helicopter flights with an alpine landing (The Helicopter Line), $99 jet boat trips (KJet), or if you’re looking for free fun, take the Tiki Trail up to the Skyline Queenstown, where you can enjoy the city’s best view with a hot chocolate.
Where to stay: Stay of Queenstown has boutique suites with breakfast and parking from $295 a night.
Fiordland
The first leg of the road trip starts with a picturesque journey along the southern end of Lake Wakatipu, before arriving in Kingston for a coffee, and walk along the shoreline.
After this quick pit stop, it’s a scenic 11⁄2-hour drive to Te A¯ nau – a launchpad to explore Fiordland.
Here you can walk a short segment of the Kepler Track, head across to the glow-worm caves, check out the Te A¯ nau Bird Sanctuary (home to takahe¯ and ka¯ ka¯ ), or take a helicopter trip across Fiordland’s vast wilderness from the lakefront helipad.
Another excellent day trip is to Doubtful Sound, which departs from Lake Manapo¯ uri. The trip involves a ferry across the lake and a bus trip over the Southern Alps, before reaching the fiord.
The effort to get there is richly rewarded. A cruise through Doubtful Sound feels like you are gliding through a majestic lost world, where mountains launch vertically from the sea, at such a height they often disappear into the clouds.
Where to stay: Dunluce Boutique Accommodation is a luxury B&B from $246 a night.
Western Southland
From Te A¯ nau, you’ll head towards Invercargill through a forgotten land of hidden gems. This often overlooked part of the South Island has a rugged charm about it, and loads of small towns that will raise a few eyebrows.
The first of these is Tuatapere: New Zealand’s selfdeclared sausage capital.
For some years, the town enjoyed limited fame for its Tuatapere Sausages although the sun may have set on the town’s wurst days. Nevertheless, head to Tu¯ ı¯ Basecamp where you can order bangers and mash to see if the legend is still alive.
Another hidden gem along the highway is Gemstone Beach. The sand is lined with colourful rocks and, if you look long enough, you may even find semi-precious gems such as jasper, quartz, or even sapphire.
Spend the night in Riverton. If the sun is out, the locals often refer to it as the Riviera of the South. This little seaside town is full of historic buildings, being one of the country’s oldest towns.
Where to stay: The Cliffs Seaside Lodge offers seclusion near a wild southern beach, for $240 a night. Or in Riverton, stay at the European-styled guesthouse, La Riviera, from $160.
Invercargill
Our Southern-most city is packed with unexpected delights, starting with Fat Bastard Pies.
Most lunchtimes, you’ll find a line out the door of
this popular cafe, and it’s worth the wait. The obsession with these runs so deep that the shop even sells themed underwear.
After that savoury treat, walk around the block to the Seriously Good Chocolate Company, which offers classes, tasters and tours.
Invercargill is also home to a digger playground. Dig This is the only one of its kind in the southern hemisphere. Under an instructor’s guidance, who talks to you through a headset, you get to perform tricks in a 15-tonne digger.
If petrol runs through your veins, Bill Richardson Transport World is the largest automotive museum of its type, with more than 300 meticulously restored vintage cars. Finish the Invercargill leg of your trip with a short journey to Bluff.
The Catlins
An hour from Invercargill, you’ll enter the wild south. The Catlins has Jurassic forests, windswept white sand beaches, sacred waterfalls, enormous seaside caves, eco retreats, and rare wildlife.
Exploring this region is a pick-and-mix – you choose the sights. However, don’t miss the short walk to Pu¯ ra¯ kaunui Falls, the region’s iconic threetiered waterfall surrounded by lush native bush.
Cathedral Caves, among the longest in the world, is only accessed at low tide after a gentle 15-minute walk through the rainforest.
Along the beach are two dramatic caves, sculpted by the rough Southern Ocean over thousands of years. The caves join deep underground and together measure more than 200 metres. Explore as much as you dare, but bring a torch to go right in; penguins occasionally use the caves, and you don’t want to disturb them.
The caves are open between October and May, with a $10 access fee to walk across Ma¯ ori land.
Another unmissable stop is Papatowai or, as local artist Blair Somerville jokingly calls it, ‘‘the hairy right cheek of Southland’’.
Somerville has created the biggest attraction in this tiny town: The Lost Gypsy.
The sign outside reads ‘‘fine acts of junk’’, and inside you’ll find the most eclectic mix of weird and wonderful creations you are likely to come across.
Nugget Point is the most iconic photo stop in The Catlins, and the short walk is worthy of the hype. Don’t forget to look down – you’ll often see sea lions and seals on the rocks below.
If you want a closer look at the wildlife, head to Surat Bay or Cannibal Bay. Both are excellent locations for sea lion spotting, though make sure to stay at least 20 metres away as they can be aggressive.
Staying there: The Whistling Frog’s cabins are from $99 a night or Catlins Mohua Park Eco Accommodation are from $225.
Dunedin
The spectacular stops continue on your final day. Just outside Dunedin is Tunnel Beach, which has a hand-dug hole through a cliff that allows you walk down to a secluded bay.
If you’re after a swim, head to the St Clair Hot Salt Water Pools, where you can enjoy the 28-degree Celsius water overlooking a much chillier sea. The design is similar to Sydney’s Bondi Baths.
Dunedin is full of fantastic free activities, such as exploring the impressive historic buildings, a trip to the Dunedin Botanic Garden, or you can walk up the world’s steepest street, Baldwin St.
Finish your circumnavigation of the south with a night to remember at Larnach Castle, which has budget options at The Stable through to five-star luxury at Camp Estate.
An encore to remember
Some will fly or drive home after Dunedin, but I thoroughly recommend taking the new Central Otago Touring Route back to Queenstown.
This journey is a little like the car version of doing the Otago Rail Trail – exploring a delightful mix of old goldmining towns – and will add another three days to your trip. Best of all, it means you can fly back home from where you started.
More information: To plan your route, visit southernscenicroute.co.nz.
The writer’s trip was supported by Great South.
Brook Sabin and Radha Engling travelled the length of New Zealand on a Stuff Travel nationwide road trip in a new Hyundai Kona Electric. The vehicle has 449km of real-world range on a single charge. For more information, see hyundai.co.nz/kona-electric.