A rich to port to sample
Far from just another port in a storm, Port Chalmers offers maritime history, spooky fun, and a quirky art scene, writes
Dunedin’s Port Chalmers is the sort of place you can imagine a retired pirate settling down. Hunt for treasures in the eclectic op shops and boutiques, before sitting down in a cosy pub where you’re more likely to find craft beer than rum on offer.
How to get there
It’s a 20-minute drive from the city centre, or you can catch the No 14 bus.
Best known for
Being the birthplace of New Zealand’s modern export trade. It was there, in 1882, that our first cargo of frozen meat left for London in the refrigerated ship Dunedin, and Port Chalmers remains one of the main ports for the South Island, servicing some of the largest container ships in the New Zealand trade. It’s also frequently visited by cruise ships (at least it was pre-Covid).
Local landmark
The striking Iona Church, constructed in the gothic revival style in 1872, with additions in 1882. The grand building has a suitably dramatic spot, perched on a hill overlooking the main street.
What to do
Nautical nerds will love the Port Chalmers Regional Maritime Museum. Housed in an old post office built in 1877, the museum is crammed with artefacts, ship models and photos, as well as information about Antarctic explorers with connections to the harbour, including Robert Falcon Scott’s ill-fated 1910 expedition.
A short drive away is the Orokonui Ecosanctuary, where you can experience a unique ‘‘cloud forest’’, and spot rare wildlife, including takahe¯ and tuatara.
Keep an eye out for
Ghosts. It definitely has a haunted vibe. You can hear about all the swashbuckling stories and spooky sightings on a Sea Ghost Walk with Hair Raiser Tours.
Where to eat
Union Co Cafe attracts many city slickers for its great coffee and baked goods (the date scones are legendary). The cabinets clear out quickly, so get there early. If you’re after something more substantial, book a table at Carey’s Bay Hotel, where the beer-battered fish and chips and seafood chowder are real crowd-pleasers.
Where to drink
Get your craft beer fix at The Portsider on the main street. Local brew stars Emerson’s and New New New Corporation feature prominently, but you’ll also find the latest pours from Wellington and Auckland. The Galley Cafe & Bar is another lively spot, offering
regular live music nights.
The shopping is excellent. Box of Birds is a treasure trove of vintage clothing, crockery and other curiosities, at proper op shop prices. Then there’s Georgie Girl, which is well-stocked with pre-loved designer clothing, and 2gypsies, where you can pick up a statement cushion or a beautiful piece of furniture made from recycled teak. At The Flying Whale, admire artworks by local children’s book writer and illustrator David Elliot, and buy prints, cards, books, T-shirts and other products. Port Chalmers is also home to one of New Zealand’s top jewellers, Debra Fallowfield, who crafts every piece by hand, using a rainbow of gemstones. Her shop is only open from noon until 4pm on Saturdays, or by appointment.
Insider secret
Interesting things can be found on top of Port Chalmers’ hills, so be sure to bring your walking shoes. Head up to Flagstaff Lookout and, nestled among the hedges, you will find a sculpture garden featuring works by the Ralph Hotere and other noted Kiwi artists. Or make your way up Blueskin Rd where you’ll find a memorial to Robert Scott, the Antarctic explorer, as well as a large anchor known as the Nineteen Fathom Foul.
Events
Check out the Port Chalmers Artisan Markets, usually on the last Saturday of each month, at the town hall. You’ll find arts, crafts and other quality handmade products, as well as tasty treats.
Stay Top shops
There are a few character-packed bed and breakfasts in the area. Try Artica, which houses boutique studio accommodation and an art gallery. Or for a quirky option, look up Buffalo Lodge on Airbnb.