FLEX YOUR MUSSELS

As the country faces the prospect of produce shortages, Sunday’s resident chef, Sam Mannering, says it’s time to look at one underrated ingredient that’s always in supply.

PASTA WITH MUSSELS, GUANCIALE, MASCARPONE AND HERBS

As I write this, the devastation from Cyclone Gabrielle is still so raw. It has forced the rest of us to realise how much we took for granted the fruit and vegetable basket that is the East Coast. Produce supply is haywire at the moment, and will be so for months to come. Think to support them however you can.

In the meantime, mussels are one thing that never really seem to be out of supply. They’ve always been a little underrated, and for what they are, they’re incredibly cheap. Surf, turf and cream – what’s not to like? Much needed comfort food, among all the madness.

PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES COOK TIME: 30 MINUTES SERVES: 4-6

• Olive oil

• 3 cloves garlic

• 1.5kg live mussels

• ½ cup white wine

• 100g guanciale, pancetta or streaky bacon, finely chopped

• 250g casarecce or penne pasta

• 2-3 tbsp mascarpone

• Two large handfuls of flat-leafed parsley

• Sea salt and black pepper • 1 lemon

1. In a large pot over a moderately high heat, add a little oil and the garlic. Fry for a minute or so until fragrant, then tip in the mussels and wine. Once it starts bubbling up, pop the lid on and let the mussels steam for 10-15 minutes until the shells have opened. Remove from the heat and allow to cool down.

2. In the meantime, in a large frying pan, add the guanciale and fry gently until lovely and crisp. Take care not to let it burn. Remove from the pan using a slotted spoon, leaving the liquid fat in the pan (you will use this in a minute). Set both aside.

3. Remove the mussels from the shells, removing any bits of beard and the tongues. Discard any mussels that haven’t opened.

4. Chop the mussels in half. Strain the leftover liquid into a saucepan and boil over a high heat until you are left with about half a cup. Set aside.

5. As the liquid is reducing, cook the pasta in plenty of salted water until al dente.

6. Reheat the guanciale fat in the pan and add the mussels. Pour in the strained and reduced mussel liquid and let it bubble up. Add the pasta with a few tablespoons of pasta cooking water. Swirl everything around the pan, letting the liquid continue to reduce and thicken.

7. Stir in the mascarpone and the chopped parsley. Taste and season. Finally, mix in the crisp guanciale. Scatter over a bit of lemon zest and juice, and serve immediately.

MUSSELS WITH CHINESE CHILLI, CUCUMBER AND DILL

You know that moment, when you have a few friends over for dinner, when the first drink has been had and it’s time for a little savoury snack-ette but not quite time for dinner? That’s what these are for. They’ll keep in the fridge for a few days, so you can plonk them out at the last minute, maybe with a little mayo to dip into on the side. If you have a smoker, give them a light smoke before dousing them in chilli paste; this will add an extra layer of flavour to them, as well as making them last longer in the fridge.

I have a habit of trying to sneak that insanely addictive brand of Chinese chilli paste, Laoganma, into just about anything that isn’t cereal. Keep an eye out for it at the supermarket. It comes in red jars with a stern looking ahma (grandmother) on the front (she’s venerated like the Pope in China).

PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES COOK TIME: 15 MINUTES SERVES: 3-4 AS A SNACK

• Sesame oil

• Two thick slices of fresh ginger

• 1.5kg live mussels in the shell

• 3 tsp Chinese chilli paste, or to taste

• 1 tsp light soy sauce

• Squeeze of lemon

• Half a cucumber, deseeded and finely chopped

• Small handful of dill leaves, roughly chopped

1. In a large lidded pot, add a bit of sesame oil and the ginger over a moderately high heat. Fry quickly to get the flavour out, then add the mussels and pop on the lid. Let them steam away for 10-15 minutes, until the shells have opened up. Allow to cool.

2. Once the mussels are cooled, discard any that haven’t opened. Remove the rest from their shells, removing the beards and tongues (unless you like the chewiness).

3. In a mixing bowl, combine the mussels with the chilli paste, soy sauce and lemon, then cover and leave to marinate for at least a few hours.

4. To serve, combine the cucumber and dill. Spread the mussels out on a serving dish and scatter over the cucumber mix. Best served nice and chilled.