TIPS FOR GREAT CURRY
Authentic Indian dishes using fresh, New Zealand-grown produce feature in this month’s In Season. Virginia Winder meets a young man inspired by a different way of life.
At home in Navi Mumbai, an Indian boy is watching his mother cook up storm. Years later, at the bottom of the world, that same boy has grown into a man, one focused on dishes from his childhood, all recreated while a wild storm looms.
Sitting outside waiting – there’s been a short delay over meat – the horizon beyond WITT is brewing with ex-Cyclone Gita.
In the absolute calm, a man in blue overalls walks up the hill peering over fences and into bushes. ‘‘Have you seen a black cow?’’
He’s not joking and when a mate joins him, the escaped beast is found hiding in shadows and is led back home.
And I am led back to the kitchen, fragrant with spices, but no signs of beef.
Today’s offering, cooked by student Sunetra Rai, comes from his mum, with adaptations to fit with what’s available in New Zealand.
‘‘From the beginning I liked to learn new dishes and I used to hang out with her in the kitchen and that’s where I gained an interest in cooking.’’
There’s a home-style chicken curry, courgette koftas and Raistyle mushrooms.
On his last day at WITT, he talks of learning and life. ‘‘I came here for the different experiences and working with new chefs and working in different kitchens, and it’s a beautiful place.’’
He has enjoyed learning about different cuisines and came hungry for culture. ‘‘I read about New Zealand and came to learn about the Ma¯ ori and the hangi.’’
So far, he hasn’t experienced a hangi, but hopes he will be invited to one.
For this month’s food session, Rai has focused on what is in season on the shores of Aotearoa – namely courgette, capsicums, tomatoes and even mushrooms.
The chicken curry is cooked exactly as his mum does in India, right down to the pressure cooker, which he brought from home. ‘‘It cuts down the cooking time,’’ he says.
‘‘I’ve tried to make it as authentic as possible.
‘‘When I make a curry I generally saute´ the tomatoes and onions with the spices and wait for the oil to separate, add the chicken and cover it.’’
He also recommends using chicken thighs, because they are so tender. These are cut into 2cm pieces – any smaller and they will dry out.
This tender curry has a tomato base and is delicately flavoured. If you don’t have a pressure cooker, it’s fine to make in a pot.
The courgette kofta curry is spicy, salty and moreish. ‘‘Back at home we make koftas from bottle gourd – it’s a long vegetable. I just substituted that with courgette.’’
After the koftas are fried, they are dropped into a tomato-based curry sauce, which is finished with cream and chopped coriander.
However, Rai says that vegans can leave out the cream or substitute coconut cream or milk.
The mushroom dish is his own invention.
‘‘That’s something I used to make for mum and dad,’’ he explains. It’s more of a finger food kind of thing.’’
He has used garlic powder in this recipe, but says people could use freshly chopped garlic, but it would need to be saute´ ed.
Bake the mushrooms in the oven or cook on a BBQ that has a cover.
Rai has greatly enjoyed living in New Zealand, across the ditch from his brother, who is working as an engineer in Perth. In India, his father is a paediatrician and his mother a homemaker and wonderful cook.
Training at WITT and living in Aotearoa has opened Rai’s eyes to a new way of being. ‘‘The people are so free here, in terms of talking. You can talk to your tutors like your friend.
‘‘And of course the beauty. I go for a drive and the beauty surprises me every time.’’
One day Rai would like to have his own restaurant, but what style he’s not sure, because trends are everchanging in food.
For now, he’s focused on being a breakfast chef and cooking up a storm.