Ethical and political –

Fourth-wave feminism, sustainability and socially conscious consumers will all loom large in fashion in 2019, writes Anne Fullerton.

Fashions change – even the word itself implies a continual state of reinvention. But while hemlines and silhouettes alter with the seasons, there’s no denying that fashion as an industry is undergoing some far more permanent shifts.

From the influence of fourth-wave feminism to sustainability practices and socially conscious consumers who wear their ethics on their sleeves, these are some of the transformations you can expect to take hold this year.

Kinder kicks (and bags, belts, and . . . )

We’ve been told for what feels like decades that cruelty-free is the new cool, but this year the sentiment is more than tokenistic.

What was once a polarised market with niche Etsy stores at one end of the spectrum and Stella McCartney at the other is finally accessible to the average shopper – one who can’t wear hemp fisherman pants to work any more than they can fork out $1000 for a pair of sneakers.

With mainstream brands such as Dr Martens and Veja (Meghan Markle’s sneaker of choice) adding animal-friendly alternatives to their core collections, the vegan leather market is expected to be worth $85 billion by 2025.

Entirely leather-free labels are also on the rise, catering to discerning customers who want a replacement that looks as good as it feels.

Internationally, we’re talking about the likes of LA shoe designer Sydney Brown, whose heeled velvet mules and elegant boots are handcrafted in Portugal, Angela Roi whose handbags speak to a timeless elegance and other mid-priced accessories labels such as Matt & Nat, Sole Society and JW Pei. (Of course, you could embrace of-themoment woven shoppers, sidestepping the need for a leather dupe altogether.)

Need more proof that change is happening at every level of the industry?

Look no further than tastemaker Gucci. Despite the cult status of its fur-lined loafers, the company announced in 2017 that it was ditching fur as part of a wider sustainability plan.

Versace and Chanel quickly followed suit, with the latter planning to phase out exotic skins this year. London Fashion Week went entirely fur-free in 2018, while LA banned the sale of fur entirely and will host its first Vegan Fashion Week in February.

Alexi Lubomirski, the vegan photographer who shot the Duke and Duchess of Sussex’s wedding and who counts Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair among his clients is also wielding his considerable clout, including a ‘‘no fur, feathers or exotic skins’’ clause in his rider.

As more people look to reduce their consumption of animal products for ethical, environmental and health reasons, you can expect to see a trickle-down effect in your wardrobe.

Redefining sexy

When Rihanna launched her lingerie line, Savage X Fenty, at a Brooklyn warehouse last year, a PR person at the event warned guests that the show wouldn’t be what they expected.

She wasn’t kidding.

A diverse procession of women representing different age groups, body types, ethnic backgrounds and personal styles walked the runway – including two pregnant models, one of whom gave birth 14 hours later.

The event immediately drew comparisons to the Victoria’s Secret show, with Savage X Fenty’s inclusive casting and size range serving as a foil to VS’ annual televised extravaganza of lithe, bronzed ‘‘angels’’.

(The issue was further compounded when Victoria’s Secret executive Ed Razek made disparaging comments about trans and plus-size models to Vogue.)

Though it can be hard to gauge whether column inches have realworld consequences, the numbers do indicate that Victoria’s Secret isn’t resonating with a new generation of shoppers.

The company’s stock was down 41 per cent last year and the show was watched by 3.3 million people, which sounds like a lot until you consider that 9.7 million viewers tuned in just five years earlier.

Of course, plenty of other brands have long championed a more inclusive vision of femininity, including homegrown intimates label Lonely.

Founded by Helene Morris, the company’s beautifully crafted underwear is noticeably devoid of underwire and push-up designs, and is presented on un-airbrushed women of many ages and body types.

While some ‘‘celebrations’’ of diversity can feel self-congratulatory or patronising, Lonely is unique precisely because it is quietly radical.

Stretch marks, body hair and other normal human attributes just happen to be visible in their campaigns and imagery – they aren’t the main point.

Combined with the democratising power of social media and body positivity advocates, these small changes become part of a wider kickback against the male gaze.

Rather than simply expanding the