Walk the talk
Lace up your boots! It’s time to tackle some summer walking trails. These tracks boast scenery to rival those of our top tramps – and come with a touch more tranquility, writes Clarissa Hirst.
Aotearoa is a walker’s paradise. The landscapes encountered along trails like the Routeburn and Roy’s Peak are among the finest in the world, so it’s no surprise they capture our imaginations and dominate our social media feeds.
Our Great Walks and Instafamous day hikes can come with crowds, however, particularly during peak season. So, this summer, take a walk on the wilder side with one of these alternatives.
From day walks and overnighters, to challenging multiday hikes, these trails boast scenery to rival those of our top tramps – and come with a touch more tranquility.
NORTH ISLAND
1. Aotea Track, Auckland
Great Barrier Island is only a halfhour flight from Auckland, but it feels a world away. The three-day Aotea Track takes you through the island’s rugged interior, characterised by diverse landscapes, including wetlands and regenerating native forest. Along the 25km of boardwalks, ridgelines and logging trails, you’ll encounter native birdlife, impressive vistas, magical waterfalls, kauri groves and even some therapeutic hot springs.
Several steep climbs require a decent level of fitness. If you’d prefer not to tackle the whole thing, start from the Kaitoke Hot Springs and spend a night at the Mt Heale DOC hut (adult $15, child $7.50). The sunset and stargazing you’ll experience here are nothing short of spectacular.
Getting there: Great Barrier Island is 30 minutes from Auckland by plane, or 41⁄ hours by ferry. Book 2 shuttle transfers to and from the track at greatbarrierislandtourism.co.nz
Want more? In the far north of the Coromandel Peninsula, you’ll find the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, a day walk between Fletcher and Stony bays, with delightful coastal views.
2. Urupukapuka Island Walk, Northland
This 7.3km family-friendly walk navigates the undulating terrain of the Bay of Islands’ largest island. You could make Urupukapuka a quick stopover on your way to see the Hole in the Rock, but overnighting at one of the campgrounds gives you time to explore this beautiful island once the daytrippers have departed.
The whole thing takes about five hours, but you can break it up into shorter sections. There are sweeping views for the vast majority of this walk, and if you do it in the evening you’ll get the bonus of a magnificent Bay of Islands sunset. Take a towel and your togs so you can stop for a refreshing dip at one of the secluded bays along the way.
Getting there: Ferries travel from Paihia and Russell to Urupukapuka Island (40 mins, adult $50, child $30). Book at exploregroup.co.nz
Want more? Northland’s Cape Brett and Te Whara tracks offer more of a challenge for seasoned hikers.
3. Tarawera Trail, Bay of Plenty
This one’s for those who’ve already done the Tongariro Crossing and are looking for another day walk with geothermal sights. This 15km hike serves up beautiful views of Lake Tarawera and its lush surrounds, which are sacred to the Tuhourangi, Nga¯ti Rangitihi and Nga¯ti Hinemihi. Mt Tarawera’s looming presence is a reminder of the devastating eruption in 1886 that destroyed one of New Zealand’s premier tourist spots, the pink-and-white terraces.
Bathing in the natural hot springs at Hot Water Beach is a relaxing way to finish the trail. Stay overnight at the Hot Water Beach campsite (adult $15, child $7.50), or take a water taxi back to the start.
Getting there: The starting point is a 15-20 minute drive from Rotorua, about 400m before the Buried Village. Pre-book your return water taxi (adult $30, child $20) at totallytarawera.com
Want more? The Pouakai Crossing, Taranaki’s answer to the Tongariro Crossing, is another impressive volcanic adventure.
SOUTH ISLAND
4. Bluff Hill Walking Trails, Southland
The various trails leading to Bluff Hill/Motupo¯hue feature colourful flora and wild landscapes battered by the elements. The tranquil Topuni Track climbs steadily uphill through regenerating native forest and is a good route up to the summit, if you don’t want too steep an incline.
Weather permitting (even in summer, Bluff can get four seasons in a day), you’ll get sublime views of Rakiura and the Foveaux Strait from the top. Then you can meander back down via a different route. My pick is the Millennium Track, for its glorious ocean views. About half-anhour later, there’s a lookout with a memorial commemorating the passengers who died on board an illfated Southern Air flight in 1998. From there, the track turns into the coastal Foveaux Walkway.
Inhale that fresh ocean air, while watching the waves crash against the shore beneath you. Allow a few hours, so you can take your time with this one, and, if you leave early enough, you’ll get back to the carpark in time for some fresh Bluff oysters at Oyster Cove restaurant. Getting there: Bluff is a 25-minute drive south of Invercargill. The Bluff Hill trails begin at the Stirling Point carpark.
Want more? Further east along the South Island’s southern coast is Jack’s Blowhole. It no longer blows, but the one-hour return jaunt boasts spectacular coastal views.
5. Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough
This stunning multi-dayer meanders through the picturesque Marlborough Sounds, from Ship’s Cove to Anakiwa.
If the idea of carrying a heavy pack for several days puts you off longer walks, this one’s for you. It’s also a great alternative to the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, if you’ve already done that one (or want to avoid its crowds).
Campsites along the track operate on a first-come, first-served basis. There are also several lodges that need to be booked in advance and offer a more comfortable tramping experience, with add-ons like threecourse dinners and packed lunches. There’s even a ferry service that transports your gear for you. Stunning scenery, without the shoulder pain? Hardy trampers might turn their noses up, but I can’t say I have an issue with it.
Getting there: A Round Trip Track Pass (adult $105, child $60), includes return transport from Picton, plus luggage transfers to your accommodation each day. Book at cougarline.co.nz
Want more? The Nydia Track is a gorgeous two-day tramp through the Pelorus and Kenepuru Sounds that’s a little further off the beaten track.
6. Isthmus Peak Track, Otago
There’s no doubt that Wa¯naka’s iconic Roy’s Peak Track is worth the attention it receives on Instagram, but tackle this 5-6 hour track instead and you’ll be able to capture those magical alpine vistas, without having to queue up at the summit.
You’ll start out following Stewart Creek, then climb uphill and eventually reach a ridge. The undulating terrain and steep sections can be tough, but you’ll forget how tired you are when you glimpse those sweet views of Lake Wa¯naka, Lake Ha¯wea and the Southern Alps.
Getting there: The track start is just off the SH6 about a half-hour drive from Wa¯naka.
Want more? The Queenstown Hill walk is a local favourite, with stunning alpine views and a trail that can be completed in a few hours.