Crunchy delights
Nicola Galloway shares an easy gratin and a crumble – and both use breadcrumbs.
Late winter can be a lean time on the produce front. Although the slow-growing winter produce is starting to catch up as the days lengthen. In a few weeks spring will arrive and with it faster growth of all things green – including the weeds!
Warming meals are still on the menu while the evenings are cold and dark. Today I share two crunchy crumbed recipes. A creamy savoury gratin using the first of the fennel bulbs from the garden that has finally reached a harvestable size. Then an apple crumble, because really it is the ultimate winter pudding, with flavours inspired by a classic apple strudel.
Both recipes use breadcrumbs, a pantry staple and one that is easy to make at home. Here is a quick guide – per cup use about 3 slices of bread (can use gluten-free).
First cut away any tough crusts (this will depend on the age of the bread). Lightly toast the bread slices, then cool completely in a toast rack. Roughly tear the toasted bread then place into a food processor, blending into breadcrumbs.
Fresh breadcrumbs are best used fresh. Or they can be frozen in a ziplock bag for 3 months. They can also be dried on a tray in a cooling oven (or set to 50C) for 1 hour. Store dried breadcrumbs in a sealed container in the pantry and use within 3 months.
This vegetable side uses two wonderful vegetables that I find abundant at this time of year. Fennel bulbs are a garden staple as they seem to thrive in my garden climate, self-germinating around the garden when I leave a few plants to flower into their fabulous yellow umbrella plumage. I have noticed the price of leeks has come down in recent weeks at the vegetable shop (of course this will be somewhat locational), and are of a good size. I use the whole leek, the white part and green tops so nothing is wasted. The importance is in carefully washing the leek first to remove any dirt inside the layers. To do this, I cut the whole leek lengthways, down the middle, then hold under a gentle stream of water while washing carefully.
I served this gratin alongside fresh pan-fried fish and a tray of roasted vegetables including yams, parsnip, cauliflower and brussels sprouts.
Preparation time: 20 minutes Cook time: 30 minutes Serves 4-6 as a side
■ 1⁄ cup (125ml) milk (I used oat milk)
2
■ 1⁄ cup (60ml) cream
4
■ 1 bay leaf (optional)
■ 1 large leek (about 400g), greens included
■ 1 medium fennel bulb (about 400g)
■ 3 tbsp olive oil, divided
■ 1 tbsp butter
■ Salt and cracked pepper
■ 2 tsp flour (can use gluten-free)
■ 40g (about 1 cup loosely packed) finely grated parmesan cheese
■ 1 cup (about 120g) breadcrumbs
■ 1 garlic clove, finely grated
■ Handful of fennel greens, finely chopped
■ 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves or ( 1⁄ tsp
2 dried)
Preheat the oven to 180C (fan 160C).
Pour the milk and cream into a saucepan, add the bay leaf and gently heat until bubbles form at the edge of the pan. Remove from the heat and set aside to infuse.
Wash the whole leek as described in the introduction, then cut into 1cm slices.
Remove the stalks from the fennel, setting aside any small tender greens for the crumb. Quarter the bulb, then roughly slice.
In a shallow ovenproof pan (or cast iron frying pan) heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil and the butter over a moderate heat. Add the prepared produce, season with salt and pepper and saute for 6-8 minutes until softened.
Sprinkle over the flour, stirring over the heat, then pour in the hot milk and cream (compost the bay leaf). Mix over the heat for 1-2 minutes until the sauce thickens. Check the seasoning adding extra salt or pepper as needed. Remove from the heat and add the grated cheese, stirring until melted.
In a bowl combine the breadcrumbs, garlic, chopped fennel greens, thyme and remaining 2 tbsp olive oil. Spoon this over the creamy mixture to create an even crumb. Place the pan into the oven and cook for 20 minutes until the crumb is nicely golden and sauce bubbling around the edges. Serve alongside pan-fried fish and roasted vegetables.
My husband was born in Germany, and although he hasn’t lived there since he was a teenager he shares his food memories with us from his Oma’s kitchen. One of which is apple strudel made with sturmer apples from his Oma’s garden. The process to make strudel from scratch is quite involved to create the paper thin pastry – although a fun process to make at least once just for the experience. But too complex for the word space I have here, so instead I have created an apple strudel inspired crumble (and to satisfy what appears to have become a breadcrumb topping theme for this week). It is not authentic in any sense of the word, but has many elements of a strudel with apples and spice, rum (or tea) soaked raisins, all topped with a breadcrumb and oat crumble. Served with cinnamon-spiked whipped cream with a cheeky addition of yoghurt for extra smoothness and a hint of tartness.
Preparation time: 30 minutes Cook time: 35-40 minutes Serves 4-6
■ 1⁄ cup (50g) raisins
3
■ 2 tbsp dark rum or strong brewed tea (black tea, or rooibos also works well) ■ 4 cooking apples, about 750g – I used braeburn and granny smith
■ 1 tbsp lemon juice
■ 2 tbsp sugar
■ 1⁄ tsp ground cinnamon
2
■ 1⁄ tsp mixed spice
2
■ 1⁄ cup (50g) rolled oats (I used smaller
2 porridge oats)
■ 1⁄ cup (60g) breadcrumbs (can use
2 gluten-free)
■ 1⁄ cup (40g) sliced almonds or
4 chopped hazelnuts
■ 2 tbsp brown sugar
■ 1⁄ tsp mixed spice
2
■ 50g butter, melted
Cinnamon whipped cream
■ 1⁄ cup (125ml) cream
2
■ 2 tbsp natural unsweetened yoghurt
■ 1-2 tsp maple syrup or icing sugar
■ 1⁄ tsp ground cinnamon
2
Preheat the oven to 180C (fan 160C). Lightly grease a 25cm x 30cm baking dish.
First soak the raisins. Place the raisins and rum or brewed tea into a small bowl. Cover and set aside to soak and hydrate for at least 1 hour – this can be prepared earlier in the day as the longer the soaking time the better, especially if using rum.
Peel and core the apples and roughly chop into 1-2cm pieces. Place into the prepared dish with the lemon juice, tossing with each new addition to coat in juice to prevent the apples oxidising (turning brown).
Add the soaked raisins along with the sugar and spices. Toss to combine.
In a mixing bowl combine the remaining crumble ingredients – rolled oats, breadcrumbs, sliced almonds, brown sugar, spice and melted butter. Spoon this over the apples to create an even crumb.
Place in the hot oven and bake for 25 minutes until the crumble topping is golden, then cover with a piece of foil (the breadcrumbs can burn otherwise) and continue cooking for a further 10-15 minutes until the apples are tender. Noting, the different apples used will have different textures, granny smith will be softer, while braeburn will lend some texture.
Make the cinnamon whipped cream. In a bowl, whisk the cream until soft peaks. Add the yoghurt, sweetener and cinnamon and whisk again until smooth. Scoop into a bowl to serve alongside the warm crumble.