Spring fare
Nicola Galloway shares two flavourful lighter meals to welcome the new season.
We are now in the first weeks of spring if you follow the meteorological start date of September 1. With our temperate climate I notice the seasons do seem to merge into each other (in most parts of the country). For the last weeks the fruit and nut trees have been bursting in blossom, and the glorious magnolia tree growing through our deck is in full bloom. So I am fairly confident spring has arrived.
With this change of season I notice my cooking also evolves. Meals become lighter while still treading a balance of preparing warming meals for the cool evenings. Fresh salad greens and herbs become a regular fixture on the dinner table. Today I share a butter bean dish, which is flavourful and brightened with fresh herbs and lemon. Plus a fish soup with saffron and rice, perfect for a spring lunch in the warming sun.
Saffron and rice fish soup
This is a lighter soup compared to a seafood chowder, with the addition of rice to make it more substantial. The beauty of fish soup is that you can use some of the cheaper fish options from the fish shop. Even frozen fish, which I am not really a fan of, can be used in a soup or curry as the flavours will mellow the ‘‘freezer’’ flavour that comes with frozen fish.
Saffron is considered a luxury spice when looking at the price tag compared to the weight. However, it truly goes a long way. A small pottle (and I am talking very small here) costs about $12-15 and lasts me about a year. Only a small pinch – about 15-20 threads if you are counting – goes into a dish. I like to add it to paella (Spanish rice dish), soups – particularly seafood, and even in sweet dishes such as poached pears or light syrup cakes. Considering how much I spend on cumin and paprika over a year, my most heavily used spices, that little pottle of saffron is quite reasonable.
Preparation time: 15 minutes plus saffron soaking time
Cook time: 30 minutes Serves 4
■ Pinch of saffron, about 15-20 threads
■ 2 tbsp olive oil
■ 1 onion, roughly chopped
■ 1 medium fennel bulb (about 200g) or 2 celery stalks, chopped
■ About 1⁄ tsp salt
2
■ 1⁄ tsp chilli flakes (optional)
2
■ 1 bay leaf
■ 400g can chopped tomatoes
■ 1 litre (4 cups) fish* or vegetable stock
■ 1⁄ cup (110g) risotto or medium-grain
2 white rice
■ 400g white-fleshed fish, cut into 3cm pieces – I used trevally
■ Cracked black pepper
■ Squeeze of lemon, plus wedges to serve
■ Small handful fennel greens or parsley, chopped
Put the saffron threads into a small bowl and add a splash, about 1 tbsp, of boiling water. Leave to soak for 20 minutes, or even a few hours if planning ahead, the longer the better to draw out the flavour.
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion, fennel and a pinch of salt, and saute for 6-8 minutes until softened – but not coloured.
Add the saffron including the soaking water, tomatoes, stock, water or stock and remaining salt.
Turn up the heat and bring to a gentle simmer.
Once simmering add the rice and cook for 12-15 minutes until the rice is just cooked.
Gently fold through the fish and continue to cook at a gentle simmer for 6-8 minutes until the fish is cooked through.
Check seasoning, adding extra salt and a good grind of cracked pepper, and finally a squeeze of lemon to balance the flavours.
Serve in warmed bowls, topped with fennel greens or parsley, and lemon wedges on the side.
Recipe notes:
■ The base of the soup minus the fish can be prepared ahead of time. Cool and chill for up to a day until ready to serve. Bring back to a simmer, add the fish and continue with the recipe.
■ Fish stock is best in this soup for a good base flavour. I make it with fish heads that are often available at my local fish shops (you may have to ask as they can be out the back). Find a fish stock recipe I shared online on Stuff along with seafood paella.
Braised butter beans with fennel and chorizo
A braise is similar to a stew using less liquid, and in this case a shorter cooking time. I use a simple trick to thicken this braise without the addition of flour or a starch. I add the whole can of butter beans, not just the drained beans as is often used, but the beans and liquid, which brings extra flavour and a gentle thickening to the braise. Legume cooking water, or aquafaba, can be used in cooking (it is the liquid used for soaking dried legumes, until recently it was not commonly consumed). Aquafaba is added when making hummus to loosen the mixture. It can also be used as an egg replacement – use 3 tbsp per egg – and it can even be whisked into meringue. There are plenty of recipes online for aquafaba meringue if you are intrigued. For now try adding it to this braise (I also add the whole can of beans when making a soup such as minestrone) and see what you think.
Preparation time: 15 minutes Cook time: 25 minutes Serves 4
■ 3 tbsp olive oil
■ 1 onion, chopped
■ Half a leek, sliced
■ 1 medium fennel bulb (about 200g) or 2 celery stalks, sliced
■ 1 chorizo (about 120g) or 2-3 rashers bacon, sliced
■ 1 tsp dried oregano
■ 400g can of butter beans (not drained – see note above)
■ 1 cup (250ml) tomato passata
■ 1⁄ cup (125ml) water or stock
2
■ Salt and cracked pepper
■ Squeeze of lemon, plus wedges to serve
■ Handful fresh parsley, chopped
■ Grated parmesan cheese to serve (optional)
Heat the olive oil in a wide-based shallow pan over a moderate heat. Add the onion and leek and saute for 5 minutes to soften.
Add the fennel/celery, chorizo/ bacon and dried oregano, and continue to mix over the heat for 5 minutes until fragrant.
Pour in the whole can of butter beans along with the passata and water. Lower the heat, and simmer for about 15 minutes until thickened.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Adding a squeeze of lemon juice to balance the flavours.
Scatter generously with parsley, and serve with lemon wedges and grated parmesan.
Serve as a light lunch with sourdough bread for soaking up the juices, or as a main meal alongside pan-fried fish or chicken and a green salad.