Go to town in Northland
Northland’s ‘winterless north’ beaches might hog the spotlight, but it is region’s wonderful small towns that are the real stars, writes Lorna Thornber.
Most travellers heading ‘‘up north’’ make a beeline for the beaches, unwittingly missing out on one of Northland’s bestkept secrets: its retro small towns. Venture to those relatively far removed from tourist hot spots, and you will find yourself in sunkissed communities that haven’t changed much since your grandparents were children.
If you are hankering for a classic Kiwi holiday of old, where entertainment came in the form of good old-fashioned fun in the great outdoors, here is a small selection of our favourites.
All that many visitors to this Bay of Islands town see is the view from their vehicle windows as they wait in line for the ferry to Russell.
But those people are missing out. pua is one of the best places to base yourself in the bay.
Far more than the ‘‘Gateway to the Bay of Islands’’, as the town (under)sells itself, pua offers what Paihia and Russell no longer can: A seaside summer holiday free from madding crowds.
English Bay is a pretty, sheltered swimming spot along the gently undulating coastal walkway to Paihia, from which dolphin sightings are not uncommon.
Take your togs if you would like a dip at one of the many idyllic bays en route, and a chiller if you plan to try your luck at popular pipi-gathering spot Te Haumi.
pua also lies along the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail, one of New Zealand’s Great Rides.
The 11km section between pua and Kawakawa is graded easy and takes you alongside tracks used by the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway and over Taumarere Long Bridge to Taumarere Railway Station, where you can catch a train into Kawakawa, world-famous in New Zealand for its eccentric public toilets.
Often the first port of call for yachties arriving in New Zealand from other parts of the Pacific, pua Marina is the place to head if you would like to explore the bay’s undeveloped islands. Hire a boat or join a group excursion.
You will also find a well-stocked general store, well-reviewed takeaway, and the family-friendly pua Cruising Club, where you can enjoy drinks or a meal with a multimillion-dollar view of the marina.
Expect a friendly welcome. The town was named the most hospitable destination in
New Zealand in Airbnb’s 2020 Hospitality Index.
A town with a name that means ‘‘curse’’ in English might not sound like a great place to holiday, but sounds, as well as looks, can be deceiving.
Home to one of the best-preserved collections of kauri Victorian buildings in the country, and a high quotient of artists, writers, musicians and environmentalists, it is one of the most cultured (and peaceful) places in Northland to take a break. Even in the height of summer.
One of the first European settlements in
New Zealand, Kohukohu (aka Koke) was a busy place in its timber milling heyday, with a sawmill, shipyard, and two newspapers and banks. The Herald Building, old school and police station, and ¯ O
Ō ¯ O
With Ninety Mile Beach on its doorstep, this classic Kiwi surf town is an ideal choice for those looking for a laid-back beach break.
Boasting one of the best left-hand surf breaks in the country, Ahipara is popularō with surfers of all ages and abilities, but you don’t have to be able to balance on a board – or have any desire to – to have a good time. Ō
Swimming, surf casting, shellfish gathering, land yachting, horse riding, and walking along the not-quite-90-mile beach are all popular activities, as are sandboarding and quad biking down the giant dunes the area is famous for.
Set above surfer magnet Shipwreck Bay, the Ahipara Gumfields Historic Reserve is the place to go to walk among the precious giants of the
New Zealand forest that are kauri trees. You will also see relics from the days the gumfields supported some 2000 workers.
The 15km Herekino Forest Track is another epic place for a hike. Home to rare and threatened species such as the North Island brown kiwi, longtailed bat and kauri snail, it snakes its way through stands of ancient kauri, providing envyinducing photo opportunities of the Aupōuri Peninsula, Karikari, Doubtless Bay and Rangaunu Harbour en route.
Whatever you do, you will want to end your days taking in the reliably stunning sunsets over Tasman Sea. Ahipara’s name translates as
‘‘sacred fire’’ for good reason.
Divided by a wide tidal estuary, Pātaua is two destinations in one: Pātaua North and Pātaua South. Both are unpretentious beach towns, ageing gracefully: retro baches are still par for the course in these parts.
You take different roads to reach each but, once there, it is easy to get between them via a footbridge that doubles as dive bomb central in summer.
Rarely, if ever, crowded, Pātaua North beach is a caramel-coloured beauty, delighting swimmers, surfers, boogie boarders and sunbathers alike.
Across the footbridge, you will find the
Treasure Island campground, where a basic shop and takeaway outlet are open during the peak summer period, and a lagoon like an oceanic pool, providing perfect swimming conditions for children and those who prefer not to do battle with big waves.
Its clear waters and abundant marine life make it a top spot for snorkelling.
There is also a mini surf beach on the north side, which is ideal for surfers in training, and there are plenty of hidden coves to explore if you are up for a scramble over the rocks or have a boat (you will find a boat ramp by the footbridge).