The Bay Chronicle

Scarlet runners just keep on running

- LYNDA HALLINAN

To avoid (or lessen the impact of) blight this summer, you can also spray with fungicides, such as Fungus Fighter or Copper Oxychlorid­e as a preventati­ve. Spray once a fortnight during the growing season. When spraying, don’t overdo it: applying these chemicals at higher concentrat­ions than stipulated on the pack can damage the tender foliage.

To improve your chances of a good crop of tomatoes, thin the lower leaves (do this on a dry day using clean secateurs) and be careful when watering to soak the soil, not the foliage. Mulching after heavy rain also traps soil moisture, keeping the plants’ roots nice and cool.

Some varieties of tomatoes are more resistant to blight than others, so experiment with a mix of hybrid and heirloom types. And don’t be dishearten­ed by the occasional lousy crop: some years the weather simply conspires against tomato growers!

Keep tomatoes well fed from now on too, using a liquid fertiliser that’s potassiume­nriched for fruit quality. Regular watering is essential as well, or you’ll end up with blossom end rot. This column is adapted from the weekly e-zine, get growing, from New Zealand Gardener magazine. For gardening advice delivered to your inbox every Friday, sign up for Get Growing at: getgrowing.co.nz

cauliflowe­r, broccoli and radish leaves, which means it’s only a matter of time before their chubby caterpilla­rs hatch and make a meal out of your plants. However you deal to them, get on with it now, be it through a cleverly timed swipe with a badminton racquet, a sprinkle of Derris Dust, a spray with Kiwicare’s Organic Caterpilla­r BioControl (this only kills caterpilla­rs so is handy for codling moth and corn ear worms too) or draping your beds with second-hand net curtains or fine grade insect mesh. All are effective.

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