Spirit of the Holy Land
Our view of Israel has been muddied by conflict in the area over the past few decades, but that’s a shame as it’s been a cultural, political and religious centre for thousands of years.
At the intersection of Asia, Europe and Africa – geographically and culturally – Israel and the Palestinian Territories have always been a meeting place of cultures, empires and religions.
Here’s the top 10 must-see experiences in Israel and the Palestinian Territories:
Dome of the Rock
The first sight of Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock – its gold top shimmering above a turquoise-hued octagonal base – takes your breath away. Perhaps that’s what the unknown architects had in mind more than 1300 years ago when they set to work on this impossibly gorgeous building. The best view, some say, is from the Mount of Olives, but don’t miss the chance to see it up close by taking an early-morning walk up to the Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif.
The Dead Sea
You pass a sign reading ‘‘sea level’’ then keep driving downhill, eventually catching glimpses of the cobalt-blue waters, outlined by snowwhite salt deposits, reddish-tan cliffs and tufts of dark-green vegetation. At the oasis of Ein Gedi you can hike through steep canyons to crystalclear pools and tumbling waterfalls, before climbing to the Judean Desert plateau above – or heading down to the seashore for a briny, invigorating dip. To the south around Mt Sodom, outdoor options include adventure cycling along dry riverbeds.
Tel Aviv beaches
Head to Gordon Beach in Tel Aviv and grab your spot on the sand or on a sun lounger to watch sunbathers bronze while the more athletic swim, surf, sail and play intense games of matkot (beach racquetball). Pick one of the bars or restaurants that brings food and beers to the beach and enjoy some lunch then, as evening falls, do as the locals do and sink a few ice-cold Goldstars as the sun sets over the Mediterranean.
Ramallah
Home to most of the West Bank’s best budget accommodation, and the bulk of its bars and clubs, Ramallah is an excellent base for visitors, and an exciting, cosmopolitan and vibrant city. Since 2017, it has hosted the excellent Yasser Arafat Museum, in the compound where the late Palestinian leader spent his final years under Israeli siege. Also in the de facto Palestinian capital is a museum to Palestine’s poet laureate Mahmoud Darwish.
Western Wall
For centuries Jews have come to the 2000-yearold western retaining wall of the Temple Mount to pray and to mourn the destruction of the First and Second Temples. The Western Wall’s enormous stones, worn smooth by countless caresses, have an almost magnetic power, drawing close the hands and foreheads of the faithful, who come in search of a deep, direct connection with God. Look closely between the cracks to see prayers that have been written down and slotted between the stones.
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE
Built on what St Helena – Constantine the Great’s mother – believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and burial, Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the holiest place in the world for many. In darkened chambers infused with incredible spirituality, a variety of Christian denominations keep alive here some of the oldest traditions of their faith. Visitors are welcome to join the parade of clergy and pilgrims as they shuffle through candlelit corridors.
Baha’i Gardens
Fusing religious symbolism, breathtaking views and meticulous gardening, the 19 terraces of Haifa’s Baha’i Gardens present visitors with a sublime expression of humankind’s striving for beauty. The gold-domed Shrine of the Bab sits in the middle of the gardens, and tier after tier of geometric flower beds, immaculate lawns, sculptures, and fountains cascade down the slopes of Mt Carmel, offering pilgrims and tourists a sense of incredible serenity. If you’re fit enough, check out the view from the top over Haifa.
Masada
The Romans had just destroyed Jerusalem when about a thousand Jewish Zealots took refuge on a remote hilltop overlooking the Dead Sea.
As you peer down from their towering redoubt, you can still see the eight encircling Roman camps, connected by a siege wall, making it easy to imagine the dramatic, tragic events that unfolded there in early 73AD. Eventually the Romans built a ramp and breached the walls, but all they found were a handful of survivors – everyone else had committed suicide rather than submit to slavery.
Ancient Jericho
Walking among the ruins of ancient Jericho is an essential part of any traveller’s itinerary in the West Bank, but there is a lot more here than the remains of the oldest city in the world (10,000 years old, according to some estimates).
Take the time to check out the mosaics at Hisham’s Palace, and don’t miss a cable-car ride to the epic Monastery of the Qurantul. Jericho is also home to one of the best youth hostels in the West Bank, Sami Youth Hostel.
Tsfat (Safed)
The spirit of the 16th-century rabbis who turned Tsfat – the highest city in the Galilee, and in Israel – into the world’s most important centre of Kabbalah (Jewish mysticism) lingers in the alleyways and ancient synagogues of the Synagogue Quarter, and in the nearby Artists’ Quarter, where intimate galleries offer creative, joyous Judaica (Jewish ritual objects). A Kabbalah vibe is also palpable in the hillside cemetery, where some of Judaism’s greatest sages – the Ari, Yitzhak Luria, Yosef Caro – lie buried. Reproduced with permission from the 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Israel and the Palestinian Territories guidebook, researched and written by Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Anita Isalska, Dan Savery Raz and Jenny Walker, © 2018. Published this month, lonelyplanet.com