Fact file

the original airfield, built in the 1930s and further extended during the Vietnam War, to the outskirts of the national park. After a few wrong turns we reach Phu Quoc Countryside, an 8ha pepper farm that has tours, tastings and cooking classes. We make our way through the platoon of pepper plants, their tendrils wrapped and tacked to sturdy posts making them look like ranks of khaki-clad soldiers.

‘‘Phu Quoc red and black pepper is the most highly-regarded pepper in Vietnam,’’ says chef and owner Pham Thi Quynh. ‘‘Our secret ingredient is the organic byproducts from the fish sauce factories.’’

Later, during a cooking class, we use fruit and vegetables grown on the organic farm to prepare tuna with passionfruit, spicy mango salad, and fresh spring rolls with dipping sauce made from the famous Phu Quoc fish sauce. The hand-painted sign at the entrance – ‘‘Let’s have free farm tour with us’’ – the rustic kitchen and shy smiles of the staff hint that tourism is still a novelty in these parts. The new embroidered aprons project optimism for the future.

Optimism is something Phu Quoc has by the bucketful, er, kegful. Wandering back through the farm, we stumble on a brewery, its ‘‘Kinh Beer’’ sign decidedly out of place in a pepper plantation. The whim of a scientist called Professor Kinh, the brewery produces dark and blonde beer for local restaurants.

If you missed Bali or Phuket before the crowds discovered them, now is your chance to be that traveller who visited Phu Quoc before it, too, changed. When you can say, I remember when the wine was made from flowers and Kinh was the only beer. And you’ll know how to pronounce this delightful island’s name. – Traveller

Kerry van der Jagt was a guest of AccorHotels, Novotel Phu Quoc Resort, Premier Village and AirAsia More: http://visitphuquoc.info/.

Stay:

Superior rooms at the Novotel Phu Quoc Resort are from $110. VAT not included. See novotelphuquoc.com.

Two-bedroom villas at Premier Village Phu Quoc Resort are from $491, including breakfast. VAT not included. See premiervillage-phuquoc.com. Visit:

The Hon Thom cable car costs 300,000 VND (NZ$18) an adult, return. See honthom.sunworld.vn.

Phu Quoc Countryside pepper farm is about 14 kilometres north of Duong Dong.

Sim Wine Factory has tours and tastings. See phuquocislandguide.com/ sim-wine/.

Looking down from the Hon Thom cable car, which costs $18 a person, and offers a 30-minute flight across uninhabited islands. The world’s longest non-stop three-rope cable car is the best way to reach Hon Thom island .