Whangamata

In 2016 it is estimated that 28,050 people waved hello to Santa Claus and goodbye to the old year a week later, and nearly half of those visitors came from Auckland. The permanent population (of approximately 3500) is OK with this; “Let the crowds come, but also let them go,” they say of the crush that transforms a peaceful coastal retreat into a party town. Whangamata-ites (Whangamata-ians?) fall into one of three camps. Firstly, the locals who have been here for generations, whose homes have sand from 1953 embedded into the carpet, regardless of how often it's vacuumed. They may be permanent, or their bodies may reside elsewhere during the year, but their hearts belong to the Coromandel. Secondly, the lifestyle lovers. When asked how they found themselves here, they sigh contentedly and say one word. Lifestyle. Only 2 hours from Auckland, it's possible to don a business suit at lunchtime and a wetsuit by 5pm. Finally, the summer crew. Tempted by sun and surf, they flock to Whangamata in their thousands, booking out every holiday home and filling front yards with tents. But come the beginning of the school term they disappear, promises and plans made to return.

It wasn't always this way. Look back a century and the isolated town was almost solely accessible via the vessels of The Northern Steamship Company, until the dirt road to Waihi (30km south) opened in 1923. Early industries were mainly timber and mining though, long-term, the beach has proven to be a greater goldmine for locals than the quartz beneath the hillside. Even the ‘Luck at Last' mine proved anything but (walk to the weather-worn skeleton via Taungatara Road, north of Whangamata).

These days, the majority of the population works in retail, hospitality or construction – work-life balance is key, especially with a large number of young families and keen surfers.

Life revolves around the water and the two ocean beaches – both with that uncommon combination of scenery, safe swimming and excellent surf for all levels of experience. Add the harbour and estuary, and Whangamata ticks every box for water activities.