The Insider's Guide to New Zealand

Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre

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Sir Edmund Hillary once said: “I don't regard myself as a crackinggo­od climber. I'm just strong in the back. I have a lot of enthusiasm, and I'm good on ice.” The Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre honours that humble mountain-mad man. Aoraki/ Mt Cook was where he cut his great mountainee­ring teeth, got good on ice, and prepared for his Everest and Antarctic expedition­s. Sir Ed helped develop the centre before his death, so there's more than a whiff of

Hillary spirit within.

Alongside items and images that show the more high-profile, louder history of the Aoraki/Mt Cook region are also quieter, more irreverent stories on display. Step up, Betsy Blunden Anderson. Believed to be the first woman to work as a profession­al alpine guide in New Zealand (and possibly the world), she applied for a job at the Hermitage Hotel aged 17 as a guide and piano player. The centre displays some of her scrapbooks, photo albums and an autograph album. This latter item is a delight. It's full of notes and drawings penned by friends, fellow mountainee­rs and the clients. One page has a picture from 1930 of a mountain-conquering, knickerboc­ker-clad Betsy with this admiring caption: “Oh lucky swain is he who is guided o'er mountain and this life by fair Betsy.” Another has a sketch of Betsy atop a mountain looking down on a knackered male lying prostrate in the valley below. The artist wrote this beside it: “I once met a fair mountainee­r/so abundantly full of good cheer/that when we'd walked miles/she was still full of smiles/while I simply longed for a beer.”

Once visitors have finished with

Betsy and Sir Ed, mountainee­ring, hospitalit­y and transport history, they can get their documentar­y fix in the 2D, 3D and digital dome planetariu­m. Hermitage Hotel, 89 Terrace Road, Aoraki/Mt Cook Village.

(03) 435 1809, hermitage.co.nz

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