Bay’s villages hidden gems
Golden Bay is like New Zealand’s version of Costa Del Sol just without the crowds and easier to get to writes
There is only one road accessing Golden Bay and it requires a climb over Takaka Hill. Northeast of Takaka township, the drive carries along Abel Tasman Drive to Totaranui via a strip of beachy villages: Pohara, Tarakohe Harbour, Ligar Bay, Tata Beach and Wainui.
It’s our version of the Costa del Sol, but without loads of tourists, and much easier to get to.
I am drawn to the area – over and over. Although the permanent population for each of these villages is small, there are sufficient options for decent food and lodging, as well as warm weather, a few arty shops when the weather isn’t warm, and of course the beaches.
First stop is Pohara with its stretch of beach that at low tide feels endless, and the sea to swim. The Pohara Beach Top 10 Holiday Park is a perfect camping spot with ten acres lying just behind the low dunes. As expected from a Top 10, it delivers plenty of tip-top amenities. There is also good coffee to be had at local cafes.
Heading east, you pass the Abel Tasman Memorial. It’s worth climbing to view yet more golden sand. The location carries special significance for Maori, Dutch, English, French as well as those who live there today.
Dutch explorer Abel Tasman anchored 7km out from Golden Bay in 1642 and, after a bloody encounter, named it Murderers Bay. Next to arrive was Captain James Cook, who mapped the area as part of what he called Blind Bay. This name was then changed by French explorer Jules d’Urville to Massacre Bay. Then, in the late 1850s, with the discovery of gold in at Aorere, the name was changed to Golden Bay. Finally, in 2014 it was officially altered to Golden Bay / Mohua – appropriately named after the small native bird – the yellowhead – which would have been locally abundant when Abel Tasman visited.
Golden Bay is a large, fully enclosed, natural haven protected from the oceanic swells by Farewell Spit, making it a good location for a working port. Tarakohe Harbour was built by the Golden Bay Cement Company for shipping out its product until 1988. Today Tarakohe offers shelter for fishing, scalloping and pleasure boats.
More coffee is available at Jacques Cousteau’s Espressoship. The boat belonged to diving legend Jacques Cousteau in the early ‘60s and was then re-located to New Zealand as a fishing boat. She came South in 2007.
Next are the villages of Ligar Bay and Tata Beach. The main difference between the two is that Ligar Bay is not suitable for motorised water sports, whereas at Tata there is a boat ramp and ski lanes.
The final village is Wainui, with yet another great beach for swimming. It is also known for its beautiful bush walk to Wainui Falls – an easy 30 minute stroll through lush forest, over a swing bridge and to – when it’s been wet – thunderous falls. You can get wet without going for a swim.
Golden Bay is my strip of sun and sand. Before our fleeting summer turns to autumn, I want to head over to the Bay for a weekend. Small kiwiana baches for short rentals, as well as flash holiday homes, abound ( my favourite one is at Wainui with unobstructed views of the Bay).
Our local Costa del Sol deserves time to explore and the long-range forecast is looking good.
elizabeth@greenaway.co.nz