Dolphins part of French Pass’ appeal
I like going to the edges of islands, and I also like seeing so many dolphins in one day that I get tired of watching them.
One of the northern-most parts of the South Island that you can get to by road is French Pass, about two hours’ drive from Nelson. The first stretch to Okiwi is a reasonably easy drive on sealed road. The second half is 33km on a winding and mostly shingle road, but with spectacular scenery.
We recently rented a bach at Elmslie
Bay, which most people casually refer to as
French
Pass, although it’s actually just around the corner.
The Bay has panoramic views of d’Urville Island, the Trio Islands and the open ocean. Sunrise is especially stunning. On our first morning, my husband woke us to watch dolphins playing and feeding in the flat, calm sea.
By the time I’d finished my second cup of tea the dolphins were back again – leaping in the air and apparently having fun. This activity continued all day – either the dolphins were extra hungry or they had heard we were in town to enjoy their performance.
The most famous dolphin in French Pass was called Pelorus Jack. He was a Risso’s dolphin that greeted passengers on boats travelling between Wellington and Nelson from 1888-1912. A lifesize bronze sculpture stands in his honour a short walk from the village.
It was fortunate that we had dolphins for entertainment, because if you aren’t into the marine scene, there isn’t much else at French Pass. The teenagers were even deprived of wi-fi.
For supplies, there is petrol and a small shop, which keeps irregular hours. Our teenagers went down four times until they found it open for their essentials (ice-cream). If you are after croissants, camembert cheese, pate and good coffee, then bring your own.
The Bay is French only in name. In summer the shop is open more frequently.
The Department of Conservation ranger, who looks after the local 18-site campground, said it is heavily used in summer and bookings are essential. The area is a great for fishing, watching wildlife, kayaking, boating and swimming.
The water is super clear and teaming with life. We saw two friendly stingray who, like the dolphins, spent their time going backwards and forwards for our entertainment.
In autumn, the water is often glassy smooth. Perfect for kayaking. We had several lovely trips kayak-fishing, only managing to catch one legal blue cod. We discovered the ease of using large, long-shanked circle hooks, which make it easy to release the many small cod with little harm. My husband is now committed to them; no more trying to remove swallowed hooks from little fish throats.
French Pass is the gateway to d’Urville Island and we watched the roll-on-roll-off car ferry service, plus the unloading of Island exports (honey, fish and tourists) onto the jetty.
The actual French Pass between d’Urville Island and the mainland is about 1km from the village. My husband is keen to circumnavigate d’Urville by boat, so one morning we walked to the look-out to check the narrow passage. The water races through at up to 8 knots, creating whirlpools, waves and eddies; a truly awesome passage with a fearsome reputation among boaties.
Dumont d’Urville, the French navigator after whom the Island is named, sailed through the Pass in 1827 and wrote in his log, ‘‘I named that dangerous strait ‘Passe des Francais’; but unless in any case of emergency I would not recommend anyone to try it, and then only with a strong breeze well established and nearly aft’’.
My husband will take Dumont’s advice, I hope.
elizabeth@greenaway.co.nz