Nydia Track a secret worth sharing
and made a deal. The trampers (me and girl-friends) would head in from the north and carry lots of food treats and do the whole track, while the riders (husband and son) would do a return trip, also starting from the north, and deal with the shuttle.
We started the trampers’ expedition at Duncan Bay and over two days walked 27km, taking 9-10 hours. We walked through lush coastal and regenerating forest, crossed farmland and sidled along the coast
The views were stunning and, in my case, the company so entertaining that I didn’t notice the two rather large saddles we climbed.
Mountainbikers are advised to start at the southern end (Kaiuma Bay) and ride north. The track is Grade 4 and is quite technical. The boys enjoyed it, though said that it is a ride for those who like a challenge. In places, it is very narrow with steep drop-offs. They had to dismount many times on the way in, and agreed that the return trip (heading north from Nydia Bay) was far superior than the reverse. Rocks and roots that can’t be ridden up can be ridden on the way down.
We stayed at the Department of Conservation Lodge, which sleeps up to 50. No freedom camping for me when $15 buys you flush toilets, a mattress, hot shower, unlimited electricity for cooking, light and heating, a large dining room, expanses of lawn, a short walk to the sea (with a few mussels to harvest), and a volunteer hut warden.
The area’s history is both long and interesting. The sheltered waterways of the Sounds and its rich forests provided homes and food for Ma¯ori. There was a pa¯ on the northern side of Nydia Bay called Opouri (place of sadness) which was the site of a bloody battle between members of the same hapu¯.
From 1876, the mature rimu, kahikatea, mataı¯ and miro in Nydia Bay were mostly felled. One miller Daniel Reese described the forest as, ‘‘magnificent, probably the best ever grown in New Zealand’’. Trees were tall, straight, large in diameter, and had an unusually high percentage of heart timber.
A settlement sprang up for the yardmen, truckers and wharfies. A local farmer opened a supply store. His woolshed was used as a hall, and a grass tennis court was created. A 300-metre-long wharf was built at the Bay and the timber was sent out by boat.
The mill closed around 1920 and little remains today. Close to the current wharf site, DOC has installed some excellent interpretation panels providing a glimpse into the past.
Despite such an extensive history of milling, there is still magnificent forest on the Nydia Track, demonstrating how the Sounds used to look, and how quickly forests can regenerate if they are given space and protection.
And it’s not essential that you slog the entire track to enjoy all this.
On the Track Lodge near the DOC Lodge, has sleeping options that include a Mongolian-style yurt, comfortable chalets and luxurious train carriages with ensuite bathrooms. You can arrange for the owners to carry your pack and provide meals. Charter launches and the Pelorus mail boat can take you all the way to Nydia Bay.
elizabeth@greenaway.co.nz