Graveyards of long conflict
Memorials and the skeletons of World War II armaments abound in the Solomon Islands, writes Emma Kemp
When it comes to war history, the Solomon Islands offer one of the most hands-on experiences in the world. From 1942, this calm archipelago nation was disrupted by World War II’s longest and bloodiest campaign.
Many of the sites and wrecks from this time remain untouched. Relics are being uncovered, and locals still find human remains.
The depths of Iron Bottom Sound host dozens of lost warships and planes that were sunk off the coast of Guadalcanal, and many wrecks around the country are popular dive spots.
But if staying on dry land is your preference, there are many sites above water that offer a fascinating insight into the country’s military history. US WAR MEMORIAL Outside Honiara, on a hill with a spectacular view, the US memorial features large plaques that give a good overview of key events and battles from the Guadalcanal campaign. VILU WAR MUSEUM, Guadalcanal About 20km west of Honiara, this open-air museum houses an impressive collection of wrecks. Walled by coconut palms are the nearcomplete skeletons of Japanese and US vehicles, including an F4U Corsair, SBD Dauntless dive bomber, P-38 Lightning and an F4F Wildcat (owner Anderson Dua will happily fold its creaking wings for you).
As a child, Dua helped his uncle Fred Kona collect these relics in the 1960s. The wellmaintained space also features numerous plaques, including one commemorating the Royal New Zealand Air Force. RED BEACH, Guadalcanal Just east of Honiara, past the Hells Point explosive disposal range and The Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands (Ramsi) base, is the unspoilt if slightly overgrown dark, sandy beach that hosted the first Allied steps on Guadalcanal.
Code-named Red Beach by the Americans, this spot was the Marines’ first landing site on August 7, 1942. No Japanese opposition was waiting on the beach, and therefore there were no casualties.
Until very recently, lots of people lived in this area, but most moved away during the Malaitan conflict. Now there’s not much here, which actually makes it feel all the more moving. ICHIKI MONUMENT, Alligator Creek, Guadalcanal Not far from Red Beach, this monument commemorates the Japanese men who fought and fell under the command of Colonel Kiyonao Ichiki.
Eight hundred members of the 900-strong