On the autovia again
A motoring holiday in southern Spain puts you in control of the where and when, writes Nicole Evatt
Touring Spain in summer doesn’t have to mean overcrowded attractions or pricey hotels. Keep the crowds and high prices in the rear-view mirror by renting a campervan and enjoy the Mediterranean southern coast through seaside towns, ancient ruins, bucolic orchards and sprawling, empty plains.
Spanish roads — from the motorway system to local byways — are exceptionally high-quality, clearly signposted and well maintained.
For coastal routes, you can choose autopista, fast motorway toll roads (denoted by the letters AP), or free motorways, generally called autovia, (marked A).
You can pay tolls by credit card or euros, but be warned that they add up.
Road trippers know that modern motorhomes come with nearly every amenity imaginable. Using the van’s various features is surprisingly uncomplicated, but in Europe you do need to know how to drive a manual. Do not drive into city centres, which typically have narrow, winding streets, or you could get stuck. Park further out and take metros in.
A number of well-known rental chains — even Wicked Campers — operate in Spain. Some, like Barcelona’s Orson Rent (en.orsonrent.com), offer airport pickup and dropoff, plus vans that sleep two to five people, with bathrooms, showers, refrigerators, freezers, stovetops, two double beds and optional add-ons such as bikes or barbecue grills.
Rentals are about NZ$275 daily for summer high season, $200 in September and $175 at other times.
Budget another $55-80 nightly for campsites in peak season. Amenities like Wi-Fi and electricity are extra. In some places, vans may park overnight in public spots, but towns are less tolerant of this during crowded summer months. At the tourist hotspot of Peniscola, travellers might prefer to skip the busy beach and head to the Knights Templar castle and former papal residence, which juts into the clear blue Mediterranean waters. offers indoor and outdoor pools and Jacuzzis, laundry, supermarket, restaurant, beauty salon, carwash and playground. It’s steps from a quiet beach and the Michelin-starred restaurant Can Roig (canroig.es). VALENCIA What to do: Chow down on meat-based Valencian paella in the birthplace of the classic rice dish.
Learn about Valencian history and culture through its thriving street art scene on a graffiti tour of the old town (valenciaurbanadeven tures.com).
Snack at Horchateria El Collado with sweet pastries called fartons dunked in horchata de chufa, a sugary drink.
Wander the futuristic glass and concrete complex known as The City of Arts and Sciences, home to Valencia’s impressive Principe Felipe Science Museum (cac.es/en/museu-de-les-cien cies), and Spain’s largest aquarium, (oceanograf ic.org). CARTAGENA What to do: This picturesque port city is home to historic sites including a Roman theatre and fortress, Bateria de Castillitos, which offers panoramic views of Cartagena Bay. Where to stay: Camping Lo Monte (campinglomonte.com), north of the city near the beach in Alicante. Its well-manicured grounds offer swimming pools, a gym, restaurant and spa. MOJACAR What to do: Explore shops and cafes in the winding streets of the charming old hillside village dotted with white buildings. Or grab a drink and watch the sunset over the Mediterranean at trendy beachfront Mojacar Playa. GRANADA What to do: It’s all about the Alhambra. The immaculately restored, sprawling 9th-century Moorish palace is a Unesco World Heritage site and one of Spain’s most-visited attractions.
You could lose an entire day exploring the ornate tiled palaces, gorgeous gardens and military fortresses with sweeping city views. Buy tickets online as they can sell out weeks in advance (alhambradegranada.org).
Regroup after a long day with a massage and Arabian bath at the tranquil Hammam Al Andalus (granada.hammamalandalus.com/en/). Where to stay: Camping Las Lomas (campinglas lomas.com/en), a wooded mountain retreat east of Granada.
Campers will find breathtaking views of the valley and Canales Reservoir, as well as minigolf, table tennis, a swimming pool, sauna, restaurant and supermarket.