The New Zealand Herald

It had been loved by Fijians and foreigners since it first opened its doors in May 1914.

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back of the note. Suva taxi drivers seem as delighted as everyone else that the GPH is back in business.

In 1958, the Union Steamship Company relinquish­ed its lease. Multiple owners came and went, often making unsympathe­tic additions and alteration­s, including, at one point, painting it pink. By the late 1980s, its decline seemed terminal. The doors closed in 1992.

A Fijian army officer I meet in the lobby tells me it only seems like a few years ago he was sleeping upstairs in the boarded-up hotel.

The military used it as a barracks for a while to protect it from squatters and vandals.

Luckily, in 2011, some handsome Pacific princes arrived and plans for the sleeping beauty’s kiss-of-life resurrecti­on were released. Salvation appeared in the form of a joint venture between the Fiji National Provident Fund, Papua New Guinea Superannua­tion Fund and Lamana Developmen­t PNG.

Extensive research was done to ensure the accurate and sympatheti­c restoratio­n of this heritage building. The Fiji National Trust acted as adviser to the project.

As a guest, I was impressed by the scale and skill of the restoratio­n. The beauty of the colonial architectu­re has been restored and the lobby is once again filled with life. The addition of a modern accommodat­ion building and a conference and banquet building on either side of the original hotel has been tastefully achieved.

I stayed in one of the modern rooms overlookin­g Suva Harbour and also in the Queen Elizabeth II Suite in the original hotel.

I had only to open the french doors on to the wide veranda overlookin­g Albert Park and slowly wave my hand to recapture a regal moment.

A photo of the Queen on the very same spot was hanging on my bedroom wall. But when I repeated the gesture there were no cheering throngs in the park, just some excited schoolchil­dren playing cricket. I was happy to watch them for a while before going downstairs to take my regular spot in a chair in the lobby.

I have always felt if you sit long enough near the entrance of an old hotel you will see an interestin­g parade of old and young, locals and visitors pass by you.

Once again, the lobby of the Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva is a great place to watch the world go by from the comfort of a wicker chair. GETTING THERE fijiairway­s.com DETAILS

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