Finding the new Mexico
A coastal resort has developed entertainment for tourists and employment for its people, finds Max Wooldridge
Puerto Vallarta was once a remote little fishing village. The only way in was by boat, or on the back of a donkey over the lush green Sierra Madre mountains. The first tourists didn’t arrive until the 1930s — rich Mexicans keen to take the healthy sea air halfway up the country’s Pacific Coast.
There were no hotel rooms then, visitors just slept under overturned canoes. Locals joke that many babies were conceived as a result. Nowadays there are plenty of hotels, and many other exciting activities exist for tourists to pass the time.
One morning, we head into the nearby Sierra Madre mountains to embark on an exciting zipwire mountain jungle adventure. In a protected tropical forest we whizz between mountain tops, traverse hanging rope bridges and abseil down cliff faces. We fly through a treetop canopy on a series of exhilarating zip lines
Mexico’s fastest and longest: a 1200m-long zipline that reaches speeds of 100km/h.
One leap ends with a refreshing splash into the Cuale River at the bottom of the valley. Then we float lazily on a tube-raft down the river.
“You guys must be pretty tough,” says our instructor Juan, as we dry off. “Sometimes we have tears and tantrums on these excursions!”
He is one of several young men from surrounding mountain villages employed as guides. It is part of a local eco-tourism initiative that means Mexicans are no longer defined by their relationship with their friends in the north.
Now young local men, who would otherwise have to travel to find work in the US, can stay in communities with their families.
“We wanted to do something to help young people and preserve the local environment at the same time,” says zip-wire operations manager Miguel Fregozo.
Afterwards, sturdy mules carry our tired but happy bodies up steep muddy tracks to our lunch stop. Over chicken fajitas and margaritas we watch a luminous green iguana feast upon unsuspecting butterflies.
Back in Puerto Vallarta, we spend an enjoyable but less adventurous time wandering through the lively cobbled streets of its old town.
The Malecon is a mile-long ocean-front boardwalk full of bars, street vendors, and giant sand sculptures. The side streets and marketplace are GETTING THERE airnewzealand.co.nz DETAILS full of life and fabulous street food. During a rainstorm suddenly all the pot-holes fill with water.
By night, the clubs and bars of the boardwalk jump with music. We visit La Bodeguita del Medio, a Cuban bar serving steamy salsa music and great mojitos. We sign our names on the lampshades in thick marker pen in keeping with the tradition of the place.
Another night we eat at Le Palapa on the beach with a fabulous Pacific sunset as a backdrop.
Puerto Vallarta has retained much of its authentic charm. The same can’t be said of some other Mexican beach resorts.
Hollywood royals Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor put the place firmly on the map. John Huston’s 1964 film The Night of the Iguana, starring Burton, alongside Ava Gardner and Deborah Kerr, was filmed here.
Burton and Taylor lived in Puerto Vallarta during filming, and Taylor remained by Burton’s side throughout the production as their romance From left: Restaurants and apartment buildings in Zona Romantica; a high flying canopy zipline tour in the Sierra Madre Occidental; shaved ice vendor on the Malecon (below). blossomed. After they married the couple bought a home nearby. Many excursions are available near Puerto Vallarta, and not just zip-wiring through the jungle. There is whale-watching, snorkelling and diving around the Marieta Islands, and a chance to see turtles nesting. Rhythms of the Night is a special show held in the middle of the jungle that tells of Mexico’s ancient civilisations through acrobatic dance Another day we head to the hippy resort of Sayulita, about 30km further up the coast. The buildings here are painted pastel pink, red and blue. North American artists who moved here to pursue an alternative lifestyle have created a vibe that feels a cross between San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury and an overpriced artisan boutique. We eat chocolate covered bananas as we listen to young trust-fund Californians search for enlightenment. As they swap meaningful travel experiences, we think about zip-wiring again.