New Zealand
There is a host of activities alongside, in and on the Rangitikei, writes Elisabeth Easther
The Rangitikei River is a green and grey serpent that insinuates itself all the way from the Kaimanawa Ranges, flowing from the Central Plateau and out to the Tasman Sea. Disgorging itself at Tangimoana 15km southwest of Bulls, it has carved vast gorges and canyons into the landscape, creating towering walls of shining white papa (mudstone).
From end to end the Rangitikei is 241km long, making it the fifth longest river in New Zealand. Lending its name to the entire district, Rangitikei is Maori for “the day of striding out” a reference to the mighty Hau pursuing his wife and her lover as they ran from Taranaki, heading south. The clandestine couple were keen to canoodle away from prying eyes and, needless to say, Hau was not happy when he discovered their plan.
Today the region is home to seven towns. Taihape always offers a warm welcome with its photogenic gumboot, second-hand shops and cafes, plus there’s an easy 30-minute (return) bush walk that sets off from the corrugated gumboot, taking you to the top of Mt Stewart. It is a great leg stretcher for the long-distance driver, and the views, bush and birdlife reward the effort. Another town worth exploring is Mangaweka with its famous DC-3 and growing arts community. Bulls also deserves a look-see for its “unforgettabull” puns among other things. Hunterville is increasingly well known for offering a version of Burning Man. Called KiwiBurn, this participatory collective camping event grows in popularity each year. Then there’s Ratana, the birthplace of the Ratana movement. Founded by Tahu Patiki Wiremu Ratana in the early 20th century, this is a very special place in Maoridom.
With so many places to experience the remarkable Rangitikei River, from boisterous white water for rafters to calmer sections for safe swimming, the river is a magnet for fishing, kayaking and camping. One of the finest ways to enjoy the wonders of these waters is with River Valley Rafting. Nestled between two steep sets of Rangitikei cliff, River Valley Lodge offers a range of activities, including fishing, horse riding and rafting,.
Once decked out in layers of wetsuit and wool, life jackets, socks and booties — it can get quite chilly round these parts — guests will experience astonishing landscapes and gentle rapids. The only drawback is that when the trip ends, if you’ve taken only the half-day option, you’ll probably wish you’d signed up for one of the multi-day itineraries.
Of course, if you’d rather enjoy the river under your own steam, The Meetings of the Waters, south of Taihape, is where the Hautapu and Rangitikei Rivers meet and is a popular swim spot for locals, as are the Taihape Pools in Memorial Park.
Wildlife is abundant around here too. Endangered whio (blue ducks) are protected and numbers are slowly increasing and, thanks to increased predator control, kiwi are also making a comeback. As for the sight of a karearea (New Zealand falcon) wheeling on the wind high above you, that’s utterly breathtaking. If you’re into fishing, you’ll also be interested to know you can angle for brown and rainbow trout in these waters, with some growing up to trophy size.
As well as River Valley Lodge, Mangaweka is another of the charming spots along this river where it is pleasant to spend a night or two. The northern most town on the river, it’s often referred to as the Gateway to Rangitikei and camping is available on both sides of the river. One of the grounds, Mangaweka Riverside, is quite basic with little more than bathrooms, a kitchen and a modest playground, perfect for really getting away from it all. If you need a few more facilities to feel comfortable, over the other side you’ll find Awastone Riverside Haven, where attractions include Wi-Fi, cabins and a laundry, even a bar and cafe.
If you’re into cycling and didn’t bring your own wheels you can rent bikes and perhaps you’ll bite off segments of the 136km Gentle Annie cycle trail that starts in Taihape and heads to Hawke’s Bay or maybe Gorges to Sea, which goes all the way from Taihape to Himitangi.
Or if that all sounds too much like hard work, you could just find a sun-warmed river rock and while away a few hours as you gently bake. White-water rafting from River Valley Lodge.