All downhill from here

Dan Peled warms to the beauty of his southern alpine ride

The Southern Alps are known for their chilly climate and cyclonic winds, but I still didn’t expect my downhill adventure along the Alps to Ocean cycleway to commence in a car. The 301km trail, otherwise known as the A2O, takes in some of the region’s most incredible scenery. It traditionally starts at the foot of Mt Cook (Aoraki), New Zealand’s highest point at 3724m. But mine begins at Lake Tekapo, the stunning turquoise expanse 701m above sea level.

It’s my first time exploring the Southern Alps and I’m slightly apprehensive to be doing so on a mountain bike. While I’m a solid roadie, 300km of mountain biking is on another level — particularly in sometimes-120km/h winds (the reason for the initial stint by car).

My trusty guides Liam and Dave from Adventure South tell me that super-fit cyclists have done the A2O in a day. I’m not sure if this makes me feel better or worse.

The trail is the longest continuous ride in the country and descends 780m from the foot of Alpine peaks and the lakes of MacKenzie Basin, through the Waitaki river region and down to the lush green vegetation of the coastal plains. Yellow-on-black A2O signs along the way keep you on track.

I’m doing the four-day version, which translates to between 60 and 80km a day. You can do an easier six-day version or just jump on a bike (rent one or BYO) and do it completely unassisted, in your own time.

The trail is classified two to three (easy to intermediate) though being reasonably fit can definitely help. But even if you’re more of a couch potato, an electric-assisted bike is on offer.

The hardest moments during my four days are braving the early morning cold. I wear every piece of Lycra I own, but it doesn’t insulate too well in temperatures of 4C. However, once I get going, the ride is beautiful. I knew the views from my saddle would impress, but they actually go further than that... they leave me stunned. I swoon at the gleaming blue-green of glacial-fed Lake Pukaki as I roll along its shores. It looks stark against the greybrown landscape, too cold to harbour trees. There’s low green shrubbery at ground level; snowy peaks on the horizon.

As I climb up to Tranbrae, the highest point on the trail, the only sound I hear is the wind around my head and tyres on gravel. It’s bliss. I look out across the valley to craggy, choppy mountains.

But the A2O is not just about landscape. I also get to witness the fascinating way humans have capitalised on the land’s natural resources.

Engineering geeks will revel in the sight of an elaborate network of hydro-electric power generators, harnessing lakes, dams and rivers to