New Zealand
Belinda Feek enjoys the natural beauty of Queen Charlotte Sound — and tries not to disturb its harmony
The water is so cold it feels like icicles are shooting through my wet suit. My singing sounds more like a high-pitched scream. I’m swimming with the dolphins in the Queen Charlotte Sound in November. I should have been aware, but I was more excited about practising my karaoke with a bunch of precious mammals than worried about water temperature.
We’re part of a tour group of 10 with Pictonbased E-Ko Tours.
They’re the only company running tours where you can swim with the dolphins, head guide Ailie Suzuki tells me.
She explains that there are five different species in the sounds at varying times of year — the dusky, bottlenose, hectors, orca and common dolphin.
Part of our briefing prior to hitting the water includes a warning not to touch the dolphins, and suggesting we sing to them instead.
I’m hoping my poor singing skills won’t scare the poor creatures off, and that the water can muzzle the racket likely to come out of my mouth.
We’ve already donned our wetsuits, which are fortunately very thick, and after about 20 Queen Charlotte Sound (top and above); E-Ko Dolphin tours in the Marlborough Sounds. minutes of searching, a few dusky dolphins are spied in the distance. For some reason the 14C water temperature doesn’t register in my brain as cold, so I get a sharp shock as soon as I giddily jump in the water. Fortunately my high-pitched cry doesn’t seem to scare the dolphins off and they frolic below and around us. We float about on our tummies, feet in the air, like we’re freefalling in a skydive.
We clamber back on to the boat where, thankfully, staff have flasks of hot water to tip down the front of our wetsuits and warm us back up.
We continue following the dolphins — even spotting a few who get up close and personal — and each time we choose a point to stop, the dolphins swim underneath and around the boat, as if guiding us along.
After three dips in the water, we call it quits and head back to shore, warmed up with a cup of tea and biscuits.
A visit to the Sounds wouldn’t be complete without giving the Queen Charlotte Track a go.
It stretches 70km between Ship Cove in the north and Anakiwa in the south.
The first section is 15km, taking roughly five hours, and ends at Furneaux Lodge in the Endeavour Inlet.
We begin rather abruptly with what seems like a near vertical, winding climb up the Ship Cove Saddle.
The only good thing about the climb is the views on offer — the water is as clear as glass as we look down.
Making the trek more comfortable is the ability to have your luggage transported straight to your accommodation.
We caught a ride out to Ship Cove on a Cougar Line Water Taxi.
Skipper Fred Gaudin is originally from Dunedin but moved to the Sounds after a 16-year stint farming in the Waikato.
He’s up front, sharing a few highlights of the region with passengers, including how the area is home to five Regal salmon farms.
We spy a few homes built in the cliff and hills. Gaudin explains how all the materials for them were brought out by boat, and that residents have to generate their own power.
The area is steeped in history.