Dragon’s den

Spotting komodos in Indonesia

If you dream of sailing the waters of the Flores Sea on the lookout for komodo dragons on passing islands, a phinisi should be your vessel of choice. A phinisi is an Indonesian two-masted sailing ship that can take you to the main islands of Komodo National Park: Komodo, Rinca and Padar. On the wooden vessel, lie back, enjoy the breeze and take in the scenery as you’re transported between each trek, dive, snorkel or swim.

And, with any luck, there’ll be a fiery sunset to capture on the way home.

Phinisis vary in length from 15 to 35 metres. Originally sailboats, most have engines these days, but retain their rigging and sails. Now they are mainly used as inter-island cargo carriers and tourist boats.

The first phinisis were thought to have been modelled on the Dutch pinas that came to the region around 1600, and were used to transport cargo during colonial times and as warships during fights for independence.

Today, there are cabins, which usually accommodate two people, on live-aboard ships for longer journeys.

Most set sail from Labuan Bajo, on the western tip of Flores. But there are trips from Pelabuhan Sape, eastern Sumbawa, or Kanawa Island, west of Labuan Bajo.

We headed out from Labuan Bajo at the early hour of 4am because there’s much to fit into the day.

Once on board, some of us settle into a cabin for a couple of hours’ more sleep. Others lie on the thick cushioning covering the large centre area of the deck for a pleasant, al fresco snooze under the stars, accompanied by the gentle lapping of the waves.

We head to Padar, a small island between Komodo and Rinca. It’s rugged, with steep volcanic mountains, deep bays and beautiful beaches of different colours — but sadly no komodo dragons.

We trek to the top of a ridge, which is tough in the heat but well worth it to look out over rugged peaks of green sweeping down into deep, turquoise water.

One of the most spectacular sights on Padar is the peculiar Pink Beach, which gets its colour from fragments of red coral.

We return to the boat and head off for a snorkel amid schools of fish large and small, and plenty of pretty coral.