The New Zealand Herald

Loving lentils

- Allyson Gofton at home

Tiny and colourful, lentils are dynamos of goodness, though they seem to lack that je ne sais quoi, when placed up against other trendy carbohydra­te posers now popular at the deli-counter salad display. Sprinting in the lead are chewy textured Lebanese couscous salads, quinoa and grated beetroot coleslaws, anything with avocado salads, or Thai-infused salads that feature crunchy egg (deep fried that is) noodles. A lentil couscous does not, it seems, cut the mustard, while an over-inflated cauliflowe­r couscous does — really?

Given lentils’ meagre price, amazing nutritiona­l qualities, gutsy, earthy flavour, culinary competence in carrying spicy or robust seasonings, ease of cooking — heavens they come canned and need no cooking —

I am left to assume that it’s the resulting windproduc­ing effect that influences our decision to eat, or not to eat lentils. Farting, a purely natural and important bodily function, is abhorred by society and this, I suspect, is what dooms humble lentils, as great as they are, to the wholefoods dustbin.

Such, you may infer, is the life of the lentil, but I say no! Lentils need your love and in return these gluten-free gems will feed you up on slow-burning carbohydra­te, folate and vitamin B, fibre, protein and antioxidan­ts. One cup of lentils provides the same amount of protein found in three eggs. All this health for the astonishin­g price of 30-40 cents per serve — though for fashionist­a organic enthusiast­s you need to treble that price.

Lentils, especially red split lentils, do not require soaking, but throwing brown or green lentils into a jug of water while you’re at work will help reduce cooking time, and more importantl­y farting! All pulses contain carbohydra­tes called “oligosacch­arides”, which are sugars (fibre, technicall­y) and are difficult to digest, until they get to the colon. Once there, they party and your gut becomes a wind turbine. However, by following a few tricks when cooking lentils, you can alleviate the often spontaneou­s, malodorous occurrence­s and tuck into spiced bowlfuls of el-cheapo, nutritious lentils without trepidatio­n of potential ignominy. A very stylish winter’s lasagne. Brown lentils will make a very acceptable substitute for puy lentils, though cooking time may be a little less. The amount of beef stock required will depend on the lentils. Use water if you do not have any more beef stock. Do not use red lentils as these will turn to mush. Use bacon in place of pancetta if wished Serves 6

600g large flat mushrooms 2 bulbs roasted garlic (see method) 150g pancetta, finely sliced

¼ cup olive oil

1½ cups puy green lentils, or use plain green or brown lentils

4 cups beef stock

10-12 dried lasagne sheets

250-350g firm-style mozzarella +Soak dried lentils for a few hours, drain, rinse well, boil in plenty of fresh water and drain well again. +Rinse canned lentils very, very well under running cold water to remove excess sodium and the oligosacch­arides. +Eat lentils with digestive friendly spices — ginger, fennel, cumin. +Begin your friendship with lentils slowly, about ¼ cup three times a week to give your gut time to adjust. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Heat the oven to 180C. Grease an 8-cup capacity ovenproof lasagne-style dish. Cut one large mushroom into thin slices and set aside to use later for the top. Chop the remaining mushrooms evenly.

Cut the garlic bulbs in half horizontal­ly and squeeze out every drop of cooked paste. Pan-fry the pancetta slices in a large lidded frying pan until crispy. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pancetta to a plate and crumble. Set aside. Add the olive oil to any fat remaining from the pancetta in the pan and cook the diced mushrooms and garlic until the mushrooms are well softened. Stir in the lentils and beef stock. Cover and simmer for about 45 minutes until the lentils are tender. The mix should not be dry, but sauce-like. Stir in most of the pancetta and season with salt and pepper, if wished. Into the prepared dish, spoon one-third of the lentils and then cover with a layer of pasta. Using a thin-bladed knife or cheese peeler, cut the mozzarella into the thinnest 7 possible slices and layer one-third of it on top of the pasta. Repeat layers, finishing with a layer of cheese. Sit the reserved slices of mushrooms on top.

Bake for 40 minutes or until hot and golden. Serve immediatel­y, garnished with the remaining pancetta, accompanie­d with a fresh tomato salad or baked tomatoes and crusty bread to mop up the juices.

Roasted garlic bulbs • Drizzle garlic bulbs with oil, wrap securely in foil and bake at 180C for 35-45 minutes or until a skewer can be inserted easily into the centre of the bulb. Keep in an airtight ceramic dish in the fridge (avoid using plastic dishes, the flavour permeates through the plastic).

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