Mosaics make light work

Andrew Stone is bedazzled by Iran’s ancient mosques

The best time to see one of the most beautiful mosques in Shiraz is early morning. The rising sun creeps over a prayer hall and throws light through coloured glass windows. A soft, fractured glow fills the room, casting red, blue and pale green light on the carpeted floor and around the base of thick stone columns. Visitors are bathed in a kaleidoscopic mix, and the hall, chilly at this early hour, is filled by the clicking of cameras.

The charming Nasir al-Mulk mosque also features soft pink rose tiles over its internal walls, and is a striking example of the cultural and religious footprint that makes the places of worship such an indelible aspect of Iran.

Mosques can be found in every village, town and city. Besides their primary role in the daily life of the Islamic nation, their distinctive architecture pays homage to a powerful faith through the arrangement of immense columns, soaring minarets, intricate tiles, huge domes, neckcraning geometric designs, stunning frescoes and vaulted ceilings.

They embrace the faithful, and reward the curious. It is something of a paradox that despite the barrage of propaganda against Islam in the West, Iran’s great mosques teem with visitors from abroad, soaking up their beauty and history.

It helps greatly to be guided through the mosques, because their secrets and physical power can be revealed by a tutored eye.

Take the majestic Masjed-e Jame, a Unescolisted gem in Esfahan. Work on the stunning Friday Mosque, as it is also known, started in the 10th century. Scholars have found that its architects achieved proportions in its construction that are close to perfect, which makes a visit such a pleasure. The designers had a deep knowledge of algebra, maths and geometry.

Away from the older part of Esfahan, the vast Imam Square hosts two mosques, a palace and a bazaar full of surprises. The visitor is spoiled for choice and the square, the world’s secondbiggest behind Tiananmen, needs at least half a day and an evening to do it justice.

Once a royal parade ground, the square hosted polo games for the enjoyment of the wealthy. Horses still trot along cobbled stones, taking families on brief rides in buggies and sounding air horns to warn the unwary.

At the southern end of the square, the exquisite Masjed-e Imam draws visitors through great