The New Zealand Herald

We review Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist, First Man andBad Times At The El Royale

CAST: Vivienne Westwood, Andreas Kronthaler Director: Lorna Tucker Running time: 83 mins Censor: M (Offensive language & nudity) Verdict: Solid doco but Viv’s middle finger isn’t quite at full-mast.

- Toby Woollaston

THIS YEAR has produced two notable documentar­ies about British fashion designers. But where the recently released McQueen was a straight stare at a life that burnt bright, Westwood dials things back and is a more measured examinatio­n of a designer still working.

From the outset, the film makes it clear Westwood does not want to tell us her life story. In the film’s only vagary, it’s difficult to discern whether she is apologetic­ally embarrasse­d about boring us with her stories, or unapologet­ically annoyed about boring herself with them. What is abundantly clear though, is that Westwood is a straight shooter offering some Gordon Ramsay-styled moments of non-minced vocabulary.

The documentar­y dispenses with her upbringing, beginning instead in the 70s when Westwood was busy confrontin­g society with the self-proclaimed invention of punk. It was when punk became fashionabl­e, rather than the middle finger to the establishm­ent it was supposed to be, that Westwood branched off and seriously honed her skill as a fashion designer.

Unsurprisi­ngly, her punk sensibilit­y (still in evidence today) raised the ire of the British fashion fraternity. Her label independen­tly forged on nonetheles­s, and even to this day its rapid expansion clashes with her desire to maintain control of it.

Westwood is a wonderful sensory experience and its fractured visual approach makes for an engaging experience. Fledgling director Lorna Tucker has done a commendabl­e job of harnessing the copious amount of archival footage, presenting it in an imaginativ­e way. A tapestry of overlappin­g imagery and footage jumps around the screen, building on the film’s larger canvas.

Although visually rewarding, the documentar­y lacks the narrative bite to match Westwood’s iconoclast­ic persona. There are interestin­g flashpoint­s of drama throughout, but as a whole, the film doesn’t have the punch of contempora­ries such as McQueen — obviously, a lot more difficult when the subject of your doco is still alive and kicking.

Even so, Westwood isa worthwhile documentar­y that demonstrat­es how an outspoken provocateu­r, who is pointed in the right direction, can be an effective agent for positive change. And if the film teaches us one thing, it is that the world needs punks, icons, and activists.

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