CONNECTION

Higginson, one of the capital’s heritage houses, built in 1901 by industrialist John Higginson.

As well as constructing one of Noumea’s historical landmarks, Higginson co-founded Societe Le Nickel — a mining company that is still one of the country’s biggest employers.

The grand house was closed when we visited but during parts of September it and other old properties are opened up as part of New Caledonian heritage month.

One thing that is noticeable during a walk around the historic quarter of Noumea is the lack of sites recognising the role of Kanak people.

Indigenous to the archipelago, Kanaks make up 40 per cent of New Caledonia’s population but appear to have been left out of the monuments on Noumea’s streets.

To discover a tribute to Kanak culture, you’ll need to travel 8km from Place des Cocotiers to the Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre.

Designed by Renzo Piano (the Italian architect behind London’s The Shard) the centre is named after Kanak independence leader Jean-Marie Tjibaou, who was assassinated in 1989.

A stunning structure, it features 10 striking conical spires high up on a windswept peninsula.

Playing host to exhibitions, performances and cultural celebrations, the centre is also an educational resource on the myths and tenets of Kanak culture.

Give yourself plenty of time to explore its grounds, which are surrounded by the island’s tropical flora, fauna and distinctive columnar pines.