The New Zealand Herald

Destinatio­n Dining: Ember Yard, London

60 Berwick St, Soho, London

- — Joanna Hunkin

We arrived …

on a busy Friday evening, having stopped for a quick cocktail aperitif around the corner beforehand. That’s the beauty of Soho, you can’t move for great bars and restaurant­s, just teasing you to come and try them out. We had a booking — but had only called ahead that morning. They take walk-ins as well and have a second dining room hidden downstairs (but if you’re booking ahead, request a table upstairs where you can keep an eye on all the action — both in the kitchen and outside in bustling Soho).

We chose here because …

Dave, who has been living in London for 10 years, thinks it’s one of the most consistent­ly good and reasonably priced eateries in town. And he’s tried everywhere. The menu features Spanishand Italian-inspired sharing plates, with particular emphasis on dishes cooked over a wood-fired grill. They regularly change the type of wood they use, which changes the flavour of each dish.

Our first impression was …

the small, intimate space is warm and inviting but still relaxed, with a combinatio­n of tall tables and stools among lower tables and banquette seating. If you’re on the tall tables, you’ll bump elbows with fellow diners but it’s all very convivial.

We started with …

octopus carpaccio, along with a side of padron peppers. If you’ve never tried these cheeky roast peppers, you must. Every bite is a game of chance — some peppers are sweet, some bitter and some fiery hot and you won’t know which until you bite. Sprinkled in salt and cooked on a wood-smoked grill, they are delicious. As was the octopus — and everything that followed.

The highlight was …

everything we ate was exceptiona­l. But the glazed chorizo, served with panizze (a kind of chickpea polenta) and apple puree was the highlight. Our charming waiter also recommende­d the duck, which was cooked over the wood-fired grill and smokily delectable.

Dessert was …

essential. We shared a blood orange tart with almond, before ending the night with a dark chocolate and Pedro Ximenez truffle each, for one final delicious mouthful.

Come here if …

you want to eat delicious food and experience charming service without paying a fortune. In London’s highly competitiv­e and ever-changing food scene, Ember Yard has proven itself a worthy and reliable friend.

The bill …

was just over £105 (NZ$205), including a 12.5 per cent service charge. That got us a bottle of good Italian red, six shared plates, one dessert and two truffles. Nom.

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