On the pulse

Legumes are the superfoods of the world’s healthiest people, writes

There’s lots of hype around plant-based protein. Most of the faux chicken, mince, burgers and sausages are made from a mix of ingredients and most include members of a family of foods that are pretty super, and we should try to include in our diets regularly.

“Legumes” doesn’t sound like a superfood family. But these humble plant foods are pretty useful in a super diet.

We tend to hear the terms pulses and legumes tossed into healthy eating advice, but we may not understand what it means. Legume is the term for this family of plants, and pulse is a term given to some members of the legume family: those that are harvested for their edible seeds. Legumes include all members of the pea family, along with soybeans and peanuts. Pulses include chickpeas, lentils, peas, broad (fava) beans, mung beans and others.

Legumes and pulses have been the subject of eye-rolling and jokes at times in the past, with lentils and chickpeas, in particular, being associated with tasteless, boring vegetarian food.

I think we’ve moved past that now. Most of us will have eaten delicious dishes made from pulses in restaurants. Think of Indian dhals and curries; the cassoulet of France; the pasta e fagioli of Italy; Moroccan tagines or harira. These are sophisticated, classic dishes with layers of fabulous flavour and texture.

And wholefood cooks are doing clever things with pulses in everything from brownies to Buddha bowls.

Many of us have probably also tried some of

the plant-based protein alternatives made from legumes, as mentioned.

The well-known Sunfed chicken, for example, is based on peas.

Legumes and pulses feature prominently in the cuisines of the world’s healthiest people. The so-called Blue Zones — the places where people enjoy the best health and live the longest — are all about the pulses.

The Blue Zones include Nicoya in Costa Rica; Sardinia in Italy; Ikaria in Greece and Loma Linda in California. In these places, people eat lots of beans, peas and lentils — about a cup a day — as part of a plant-based, minimally processed diet. They eat meat, too, but in small amounts, more as a garnish than the main feature of a meal.

Health-wise, legumes are one of the best plant sources of plant protein, as well as a useful source of carbohydrate. They contain iron, folate, magnesium and potassium.

Legumes also contain soluble and insoluble fibre, which is vital to our gut health. There’s evidence to suggest legumes may lower the risk of heart disease, lower cholesterol, reduce blood sugar and help with weight management.

There’s a bit of talk in paleo and other diet circles about legumes containing “antinutrients” — compounds that stop us absorbing other nutrients and minerals in our meals. It’s true that raw legumes contain substances such as phytic acid and lectins, which inhibit the absorption of some minerals, and in the case of phytic acid, can be toxic.

But we don’t eat legumes raw — most can’t be eaten that way. Soaking, cooking and sprouting counteract the effects of antinutrients. As cooks know, it’s really important to prepare legumes properly if you’re using dried ones; red kidney beans, in particular, must be soaked, rinsed and cooked properly to avoid people getting sick. Canned lentils have had the work done, so can be eaten straight from the can. And we have quick-cook lentils and peas now (available in the bulk bins) which have been pre-cooked and dried, so they cook safely in a few minutes.

Legumes have a bit of a farty reputation. That’s probably because they contain galactooligosaccharides (GOS), a fermentable carbohydrate that’s one of the FODMAP foods. People with IBS can have real problems with them. But it’s worth noting that how they’re prepared makes a big difference. For example, dried and cooked lentils and chickpeas can be problematic on a low-FODMAP diet, but canned versions are generally okay, due to how they’re processed.

If this is you, it’s worth checking your own tolerance and trying to include as wide a variety of legumes as you can into your diet.

However we eat, legumes deserve a place on our plates. They’re inexpensive, delicious and versatile foods — and they’re great for us.