The New Zealand Herald

A day in Seoul for $200

(*“Jjan” to my friend Doctor Bryan Bae, whose recommenda­tions helped inform this article.)

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Public transport in Seoul, like many big cities in East Asia, is extensive and efficient, with English translatio­ns on all stops and exits. Grab a transporta­tion money (T-money) card or a pass, even if you’re only planning to spend one day in Seoul. I’m going to use the Seoul “city pass” as a base for costing, which is $20 for one day and entitles you to as many trips on the bus, subway or Seoul City Tour Bus as you like.

Start your day on the north side of the river. Myeongdong is a standout “crazy shopping district” according to Doctor Bae, with internatio­nal fashion brands, luxury department stores and homegrown cosmetics shops. “It’s awesome for people-watching”.

If caffeine is your poison there’s a small branch of the renowned Korean coffee chain Coffee Libre in Myeongdong, within the Myeongdong Cathedral complex. Their Aeropress Dutch Iced Latte will keep you on your feet, $10.

Most Korean food is exceptiona­lly cheap and delicious, so I will offer a few suggestion­s without fully costing it out — let’s say we’re going to spend $30 on street food. Look out for Korean dumplings and ginseng chicken soup shops or follow your nose to the street vendors and their tempting snacks. Don’t miss the tornado potato, deep fried spiral-cut whole potato on a skewer, invented in Myeongdong. Another highlight is tteok-bokki, a stir-fried rice cake in a spicy red (gochujang) sauce, which can often be bought by the cup for less than $3.

“I remember as a kid following Mum through Insadong neighbourh­ood and it’s a good little neighbourh­ood to just get lost in”. Ssamziegil Market is half mall and half outdoor bazaar. It’s on the main road of Insadong and really easy to find. The mall contains more than 70 shops filled with one-of-a-kind Korean products. It’s a great place for retail therapy or souvenir hunting. Our budget allows $85 for something special.

Depending on your interests you could spend the afternoon at Gyeongbokg­ung (admission $4), the old Chosun dynasty palace — or the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (admission $13) — “everyone loves it” says Doctor Bae.

End your day with people-watching or a cycle around the Han river — there are lots of bike-friendly areas and rental stations ($4-$8 per hour depending on the bike). In Hangang Park locals order fried chicken and drink sparkling rice wine, makgeolli, as the sun sets ($30 approx). Find one of the old ladies giving out the flyers for chicken; they’ll call and order it for you. Finally, Itaewon neighbourh­ood is where you can party until 6am — “lots of foreigners go to Itaewon and get lit,” says Doctor Bae. TOTAL: $200

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