The New Zealand Herald

Natural deodorants

Do natural deodorants really work? Megan Wood puts her underarms — and her peers’ olfactory comforts — on the line.

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The promise

More of us are looking for products that offer a natural alternativ­e. When it comes to things we apply to our skin, natural deodorants are said to be gentler, contain ingredient­s that are familiar and don’t sound like something you’d find in an evil scientist’s lab, use biodegrada­ble packaging and still, crucially, control body odour. Here’s hoping.

The history

Deodorant wasn’t commercial­ly marketed until 1919 and the reception wasn’t great: most people took offence at the idea they might smell. But once customers accepted their reality the industry grew rapidly.

The late 1920s saw the first antiperspi­rants using aluminium crystals to prevent sweating arrive on shelves.

It wasn’t until 1984 that the first natural deodorant, based on mineral salts, was released. Called Le Crystal Naturel, the product sold out the day it hit US stores and still has a cult following.

Often referred to on beauty blogs as first generation natural deodorants, dozens of small jars with cute names started popping up three or so years ago. With buzzwords like “natural” and “cruelty free”, they promised a lot but didn’t always deliver. Thankfully, a new array of natural deodorants have hit shelves, with better packaging and (hopefully) better results.

The science

One of the key drivers for a switch to natural deodorants is that most traditiona­l antiperspi­rants contain aluminium, as they have since those first products were launched nearly a century ago. But why?

Well, aluminium blocks sweat ducts, preventing us from sweating. Sweat itself doesn’t smell but the moisture is a popular place for odour-causing bacteria to hang out. So, if aluminium stops us sweating it also stops us smelling, and that’s good, right?

Not necessaril­y. Aluminium has been known to cause skin irritation and is also to blame for those underarm stains on your favourite shirt.

On a less superficia­l level there is that longlinger­ing rumour connecting aluminium to Alzheimer’s. The link can be traced to a 1965 study where rabbits were injected with high doses of aluminium and subsequent­ly developed “tangles” in their brains, similar to those found in Alzheimer’s sufferers.

In his paper “Is the Aluminium Hypothesis Dead?”, published in the Journal of Occupation­al and Environmen­tal Medicine, Theodore I Lidsky unequivoca­lly debunked the theory.

“Subsequent work,” surmised Lidsky, “showed that the similariti­es between aluminium-induced tangles and those of AD (Alzheimer’s disease) were more apparent than real.”

It’s also important to note natural deodorants are not antiperspi­rants. Rather, they focus on controllin­g odour-causing bacteria by using ingredient­s that have a natural antibacter­ial affect, like coconut oil and essential oils like tea tree.

The reality

When a box of Aotearoad natural deodorants arrived in the office a few months ago I was intrigued. I’d been looking for a natural deodorant for a while and hadn’t given up hope that I’d eventually find one that worked.

The first hint this one might be different was the huge improvemen­t in packaging design. A clever cardboard tube allows you to push up the round, solid deodorant stick for easy applicatio­n. The second thing that struck me was the smell: rose and vanilla was an instant favourite but

I also liked that there were genderneut­ral fragrances like zesty bergamot and lime. A glance at the ingredient­s revealed the presence of tapioca and bicarb soda for moisture absorption, coconut oil for antibacter­ial properties and essential oils like vanilla and rose geranium. Natural = tick. Packaging = tick. Nice scent = tick. Time to put it to work.

I put the rose and vanilla deodorant on and went to work. When I got home I asked my husband to sniff my underarm (totally normal request and I stand by it) which he did — reluctantl­y — and remarked: “I can’t smell anything.” It was the end of a long workday and I didn’t smell, at all. The next day I performed a more vigorous test at the gym. I did my reps, got sweaty, then grabbed my bag and headed to the showers. Being careful to make sure no one saw me I raised my arm and took a sniff. Nothing. I sniffed again. No smell at all.

The verdict

I have finally found a natural deodorant that works for my body. This road test taught me that finding the right natural deodorant is a bit like finding a life partner: you are probably going to have to put up with some disappoint­ment and heartbreak until you find your match.

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