What lies beneath
Waimungu Volcanic Valley promises to help you understand how the world began, writes Grant Bradley
In this beautiful slice of Aotearoa an easy 30-minute drive south from Rotorua, it all started not so long ago. The eruption of Mt Tarawera in June 1886 tore a 17km-long rift in the valley and that’s what you look down on from the top of the trail. You’re surrounded by young native forest in a place of mist and steam, tragedy and thermal wonder. A natural wonder of the world — the Pink and White Terraces — were one of the great international tourist attractions before being covered by the eruption.
So was the Waimungu Geyser, which during a magnificent four-year reign, would hurl rocks, sand and mud up to 400m into the air (that’s almost 100m taller than the Sky Tower) on a 36-hour cycle. It lasted for four years until 1904 and attracted genteel visitors and thrill-seeking photographers from around globe.
One of the best parts is that you don’t have to just imagine this, you can see it on your phone.
Waimungu general manager David Blackmore loves this place and he’s particularly proud of the app, which is in a constant state of development.
Free to download, the app includes information and features on both the self-guided walk/ hike and the Lake Rotomahana boat cruise where once at a certain point you can ”see” through augmented reality what used to be there on your phone.
A clever slider feature allows you to move between historic and current-day images and locations. You can see what lies beneath 30m deep Inferno Crater and how the native bush has regenerated.
It’s practical, easy to use and a good example how technology enhances the experience, rather than being a gimmick.
It doesn’t use data once downloaded but do that in town — the Wi-Fi’s a bit patchy in the valley.
Our visit included a 45-minute boat cruise on Lake Rotomahana, below which the terraces lie. We motored close to steaming cliffs and a playful geyser that on a calm autumn morning made this a beautiful way to start the day.
We’ve come here a handful of times over several decades and the latest visit was a reminder of how much New Zealand tourism experiences have improved. Admission prices are higher but so is the professionalism and the reward, and how often can you get to see the planet at such a juvenile stage?
We were lucky to have Blackmore guide us with another couple. His breadth of knowledge and enthusiasm for the area shone through during what is an easy stroll (apart from a few steps to Inferno Crater) and cruise.
You can stay all day if you want and there are buses that run on schedule up and down the valley. I’d recommend a guided tour for which you pay extra but among a group the cost can be shared and you get much more out of the experience than if self-guiding, even with the app.
Bring a picnic if you can but in the gift shop there’s hearty food — burgers, sandwiches, fries — nicely prepared for reasonable prices.