Naomi Arnold checks into the James K. Cottage at the Flying Fox, Whanganui River

Getting there: About an hour’s drive from Whanganui, then a trip across the river in a cable car, 20m above its swirling brown waters.

Style: The cottage is just one of the accommodation options available in this large complex high above the river. Considering those who built the place had to either helicopter everything in or convey it 180m across the river in a cage, the cottage and its environs are luxuriously appointed. Originally a barn, the decor is 1990s recycled country-style, with plaster and beams, lots of recycled timber, character-filled doors and windows, and a large lawn out front for games of cricket, morning coffee, and evening beers. Check-in experience: I challenge anyone to better the experience of bashing a gong to announce your arrival then zipping across the river in a flying fox. Room: The cottage has hints of its namesake: a drawing of Baxter, a shelf of his books, and some religious artefacts that used to belong to the Sisters of Compassion up the river at Jerusalem/Hiruha¯ rama (unfortunately, some have been stolen over the years). But with a record selection, lots of books, and a suitcase of sports gear, this is the sort of place where you could have a grand time with friends on a winter weekend away. Stoke up the potbelly, cook a couple of roasts in the oven, play cards, and argue about the split between Baxter’s misogyny and his art. Go to sleep

to the ruru and wake up to the tu¯¯ı. It’s just us, but with two bedrooms each containing a queen bed and four singles, there’s plenty of room for more.

What’s in the neighbourhood? The Flying Fox has a small shop selling food and crafts, a book exchange, and there are bush walks, mountain bikes, board games, swimming, and a bush bath. Visit the church and convent at Jerusalem, Koroniti marae, Matahiwi Cafe and Gallery, and the Kawana historic flour mill. Something to eat? The place is self-catering, and the shop provides basic provisions: rice, wine, beer, chocolate.

Bathroom: Attached to the main cottage, the bathroom is clean and ingenious, with a corrugated iron-clad shower, a non-smelly composting toilet, and pottery hand basin.

Price: We scored a 15 per cent June and July discount, but the price is normally $240 a night for two people in the whole cottage, with $40 per extra person.

The bottom line: A unique, friendly way to experience the history, beauty, and morning mists of the Whanganui River.