A day Tokyo for $200 (ish)
Shimokitazawa, or Shimokita, is my favourite neighbourhood in Japan. I loved it so much that I clawed days off my Kyoto plans so I could return to Shimokita.
Breakfast isn’t as popular in Japan as it is in some Western countries, so most of your options will be pretty simple, a danish and coffee instead of a larger breakfast. Right next to the south exit of Shinjuku Station is a bakery called Boul’ange (formerly Gontran Cherrier). They do awesome croissants, baguettes and pain au chocolat. Budget $10.
Coming from Shinjuku, take an express train on the Odakyu line and get off at the second stop (seven minutes, about $5 total) and head for the north exit. We’re here!
Shimokita is a hip cultural quarter with a lingering old-Tokyo vibe, fiercely protected and resistant to chain stores. The area was once a US second-hand market for soldiers after the surrender and remnants of the market exist today. This neighbourhood has become a gathering spot for creative people, its narrow lanes lined with fascinating stores for vintage and antique shopping — plus many modern objects of desire.
Lunch is a three-minute walk from the North Exit of Shimo-Kitazawa Station. Head east on the road in front of Peacock Store. The restaurant is along the way on the north side. Handsome serves juicy, tender yakitori, as well as hand-pulled soba. Oishii. Budget $20 per head.
Spend the afternoon window-shopping; there is so much to discover and the day’s other costs only come in at around $70. Consider antique toy shop Soundsgood. The American vintage items sold at the shop are hand-picked by the shop’s owner.
Toyonchinotamago is supplied by a chicken farm by Kujukuri beach in Chiba. You can buy all different kinds of premium eggs but don’t miss their creamy, silky pudding ($4). A must-try.
Gallery HANA Shimokitazawa is a pretty gallery facing the main Ichibangai street. You can see artworks on display from the outside as well. There are different pieces of art by various artists on a daily basis.
Another shop worth visiting is Ehimade. This shop sells artisanal products from Ehime Prefecture, notably the imabari towel
($15-$80). Quality control demands that the towels must sink within five seconds when dropped into water. Christmas sorted.
That’s a full day in Shimokitazawa. Browsing, exploring, eating, drinking, art. The place to go for dinner: Ten To Sen. Grab a spicy ramen ($22) with wood-ear mushroom, cashew nuts, pepper, chives, coriander, burdock, red onion and pork slices. Pretty and delicious.
TOTAL:
$70 (food, transport) + $130 (shopping)