The Beautiful Ones
As global beauty brands shift towards inclusivity, Ashleigh Cometti examines the influence of pop and drag culture on the rising trend of men in makeup
Prince, David Bowie, Freddie Mercury, Mick Jagger, Boy George.
It seems we have the glam rock 1970s and the clubland culture of the 1980s to thank for some of the most directional men’s beauty looks of all time.
Each known for a no-holds-barred approach to beauty, from high-impact colours to graphic shapes, smoky kohl eyeliner and splashes of glitter, these rockers reached deep into their makeup bags to make their beauty look part of their stage persona. It’s taken, however, a few decades for this level of makeup creativity to become more widely accepted as part of the new mainstream.
According to Urban Decay global makeup artist Steve Kassajikian, inclusivity is something the brand has homed in on since its launch in the 1990s.
“It was a brand that was for boys and girls and one that really disrupted the beauty industry — it pushed back on what society was saying was beautiful. I feel like a lot of people resonated with that, especially the freaks, the outcasts and the people that didn’t fit the ‘normal’ mould of what beauty is,” he says.
Twenty three years later, Urban Decay’s latest brand refresh has a new slogan: “Pretty Different”, as well as five new Urban Decay global citizens that champion uniqueness. The line-up includes queer actor Ezra Miller, famed for his gender-bending red carpet looks.
The influence of drag culture on men’s makeup is undeniable — just take a look how popular reality television show
RuPaul’s Drag Race catapulted countless queens to celebrity stardom.
Once thought unconventional, drag culture has become ubiquitous in recent years, Steve says. Drag queens were “the first to do it right. A lot of trends (especially on social media) come from the world of drag. Things like baking, contouring and cut crease eyeshadow are art forms that help men portray themselves to look more feminine.
“As it’s now become so acceptable and mainstream, I feel like more men in the beauty industry feel comfortable in expressing themselves by wearing makeup,” he says.
Social media has played its part in shining a spotlight on men’s makeup. This year has seen countless male beauty gurus pop up across YouTube and Instagram, empowering young men to follow suit.
“It’s cool to see how guys are feeling more comfortable wearing makeup, and how talented they are at such a young age,” Steve says.
“It’s largely thanks to the era they’re in — they have a lot at their fingertips to help elevate their skills. When I was starting in makeup there was no YouTube or Instagram. You had to learn from watching other artists do makeup in person.”
Steve advises first-time male buyers to break down their makeup starter kit into categories. “I start with the skin. I ask them what kind of look they want to achieve, their skin type and the finish they’re after,” he says.
A long-wearing foundation is a must, Steve says, especially for those with oilier skin types, as is a makeup setting spray. “I sweat profusely and use a spray because it keeps my makeup on lockdown.”
Steve recommends investing in a good palette to help create a multitude of eye looks, but advises newbies to prep first with a long-wearing eyeshadow primer.
A brow product that gives the illusion of hair minus the commitment of microblading is also a must for first-time makeup dabblers. “You can still have a block brow, without an arch,” Steve says.
• Urban Decay is available from Meccabeauty.co.nz. For other products to add to your first time buyer’s kit, visit Viva.co.nz/beauty-mens-makeup-kit