From the restaurant garden

FLORENCE FENNEL

Executive chef Des Harris and head gardener Dave Mercer from The Hunting Lodge, Waimaukau on planting and cooking with this mild, anise-tasting bulb.

Dave: Fennel (left) is a cool weather perennial, native to the Mediterranean. It’s hardy and even declared a weed in some parts. We grow Florence fennel, which is a bit sweeter than wild fennel. Fennel will survive light frosts and, because of our mild microclimate in Waimauku, ours survive longer than they usually would. Self-seeding is prolific so we get patches growing all over the garden. We let it go rampant so the chefs can take advantage of the pollen and seeds. Fennel prefers fertile, well-drained soil and it will take three to four months for the bulb to mature from planting. When growing from annual bulbs, plant the seedlings 10-20cm apart in spring and plant again in late summer for an autumn crop.

Des: The bulb is wonderful sliced thinly on a Japanese mandoline, refreshed in ice water and added to salads. The fronds are great tossed through salads or to garnish seafood dishes. You can do myriad things with fennel during its life cycle if you don’t pick the bulb. It will eventually flower to produce pollen which will then turn to seed. Try gathering it from the tips — it’s a bit laborious but worth it. Dry the excess under a lamp and store it in an airtight jar. It will keep for months and the drying process will make the flavour superintense, meaning a little goes a long way. Sprinkle over dishes for licorice/anisetasting freshness. I love to pickle the fresh seeds and use them with the pickling liquor to flavour marinades and dressings. The seeds add a lovely textural pop and impart a heady freshness to dishes.