A day in Dilijan, Armenia for $200 (ish)
Armenia is an impossibly pretty country with a new lease on life since the non-violent uprising that overthrew the government last year. There is renewed hope inside Armenia that the country will chart a new course. This is the place of trails through stunning vistas, ancient monasteries and eagles, bears, lynxes, and wolves. A hiker’s dream.
For uninterrupted service, buy a prepaid data SIM card from VivaCell at the airport. This will cost no more than $20.
Many things are ridiculously affordable. You can go from Yerevan to Dilijan in 2 hours-ish and it will cost $35 at the most. You can negotiate a package deal with the taxis — someone from the brand-new tourist information office can help you translate and negotiate, as most of the drivers will not speak English. Tipping is expected but cheap, about 500 drams ($ 1.60) is good. $20 in drams will generously cover the whole day and make people smile.
Breakfast at Cafe #2. A great place with English-speaking staff. It is part of a (partly-EU-funded) project that helps local teenagers gain work experience in a super setting with balconies over the lake. Budget $10 per head. In the entry hall there’s a tasteful little souvenir corner, locally made and affordable. Budget $5.
A 20-minute, $5 taxi from cafe #2 and you’re at Haghartsin Monastery complex in the Dilijan National Park, a Muslimsponsored restoration of an 11th century Christian church nestled in the beautiful forest. Next to the church there is a little cafe where locals make traditional Armenian pastry — gata. Budget $10 for a light lunch.
Before you leave, seek the hidden waterfall trail. Marked by stepping stones in the underbrush, only 10 minutes each way. From the monastery you can also visit the ruins of the medieval village of Haghartsin, 20 minutes’ walk away, among other interesting historical sites.
I would highly recommend walking or cycling back to earn your dinner. Bicycles are available to rent at the tourism centre in Dilijan, 4-5 hours costs $11.
Reserve a patio seat at Kchuch (clay pot) Restaurant, located in the middle of a lush park in the heart of Dilijan. The atmosphere is nice and cosy — and the food is local and delicious. Traditional Armenian dishes include osso buco, lamb shanks, dolma, mante (baked meat dumplings served with yogurt), lavash (wood-fired bread), lahmajun (thin dough topped with spicy mincemeat) ghapama (a stuffed pumpkin dish) and khorovadz (skewered meat). $20 will ensure you a feast. A bonus (in my opinion), there are cats milling around asking for food.
There’s over $ 60 dollars going spare for this day-trip, so look into buying some art or securing a massage, pool sauna or spa visit at one of the local hotels, such as the Best Western Plus Paradise Hotel Dilijan. It’s 20 minutes ($ 5) from the town centre. The information centre can help you communicate.
TOTAL: $141
+ Spa access