Adapt or die — Galapagos hit by double whammy
The World Heritage site that inspired Darwin is in tatters
Before coronavirus, sudden life-threatening ailments among tourists, fishermen and others on the Galapagos Islands were considered so rare, hospitals didn’t have a single intensive care unit bed.
Now, officials are racing to equip medical teams on the remote islands with breathing machines while also trying to staunch an economic crisis that has left many of the 30,000 residents jobless.
The island chain’s famous isolation is now heightening its hardship.
For seven weeks, not a single tourist has arrived at the Unesco World Heritage site that inspired Charles Darwin. Studies of the archipelago’s unique marine and avian wildlife have halted. And residents are making urgent changes, like growing carrots, peppers and tomatoes at home so they don’t go hungry.
“Galapagos is the land of evolution,” said Joseline Cardoso, whose small family-run hotel on Santa Cruz island is empty. “The animals have adapted and we humans cannot be the exception.”
Ecuador is among the Latin American nations hit hardest by Covid-19, and authorities on the Galapagos Islands believe their first cases probably came from Guayaquil, the coastal city where hospitals turned away patients and the dead were left in homes for days.
The legendary islands have been relatively shielded from what happens 1000km away on the mainland. A financial crisis two decades ago left many Ecuadorians penniless but steady international tourism kept the Galapagos afloat. Last year, more than 275,000 people came to see the swimming iguanas, giant tortoises and birds with webbed feet the colour of blue cotton candy.
Islanders rely on military aircraft to ferry the critically ill to Quito or Guayaquil. Many go to the mainland for appointments, and some hire doctors to fly in for major events like childbirth.
Locals like to joke that “in the Galapagos, it is prohibited to get sick”.
But coronavirus has upended any sense of island immunity.
The islands’ first four cases were diagnosed in late March, all believed to have come from Guayaquil before travel was cut off.
Soon after, the first islandassociated death was announced: a worker in his 60s who had been on the Celebrity Flora yacht and fell ill after returning to Quito.
There are now 107 cases in the Galapagos, including about 50 crew members still aboard the Celebrity Flora, a luxury ship operated by a subsidiary of Royal Caribbean Cruises. It docked in time for passengers to get flights home.
Authorities have scrambled to equip hospitals, where there are only four ICU beds — about one for every 7500 residents — and a lab to do virus tests. The Charles Darwin Foundation donated two of the new ventilators. In addition to military transports, a police aircraft is being mobilised. Ecuador president Lenin Moreno has offered one of his two planes, said Juan Sebastian Roldan, his Cabinet secretary.
Most of the cases have been mild, with only two people hospitalised.
The bigger blow has been to tourism. At least 800 visitors usually arrive daily, and officials estimate the islands already have lost at least US$50 million ($84m) — a quarter of their expected annual income.
“The base of our economy has entirely collapsed,” said Norman Wray, governor of the islands. “This is completely changing the future of tourism in the Galapagos.”
Ivan Lopez, a guide and scuba teacher, was taking tourists around the islands when Ecuador ordered a lockdown. He was told to get off the boat and immediately was jobless.
A 39-year-old father of two, he believes he can stretch his savings for six months but doesn’t know what he will do if the crisis drags on. He’s started a vegetable garden.
Already-high prices in supermarkets have skyrocketed. When Lopez searched recently for disinfectant, he found alcohol at US$40 a gallon (US$16 a litre). The islands largely rely on cargo ships, which have been slower to arrive.
“If the ships stop coming, it will be chaos,” he said. “We won’t have anything to eat.”
Fishermen go door-to-door selling tuna and wahoo to islanders, while farmers drive through neighbourhoods yelling out “Tomatoes! Lemons! Greens!” on a megaphone.
Cardoso, who dreamed up her sixroom hotel as part of a student project, said her new reality feels like a nightmare she’s yet to wake up from.
The hotel is usually 75 per cent occupied but all reservations have been cancelled for July.
“To be with an empty hotel breaks your heart,” she said.
Scientists have also seen their work analysing the Galapagos wildlife abruptly interrupted.
The islands have a rich history of scientific investigation and discovery since Darwin arrived aboard the HMS Beagle in 1835, noting that species on the relatively new volcanic islands bore key differences from those in South America.
Humans have caused the islands irreparable harm, wiping out thousands of whales and tortoises, introducing invasive species such as insects, wild pigs and goats, and damaging the delicate vegetation.
At the Charles Darwin Foundation, researchers had been studying a species of parasitic flies, which likely arrived more than 30 years ago on a plane or boat.
The flies threaten 20 bird species, and scientists have been collecting data on them for five years, but there will be blank spaces for 2020 that “we will not be able to recover”, said Maria Jose Barragan, the foundation’s chief executive and science director.
How soon the Galapagos Islands can reopen is unclear. Ecuador’s government is allowing for a gradual opening in three stages. But the final stage is not a full return to normal and does not call for resuming national or international flights.
For many islanders, the pandemic has left them to meditate on their relationships with nature, industry and travel.
Some wonder if they should continue to remain so dependent on tourism, while others say it highlights the need for self-sufficiency.
For Cardoso, the answer lies in the story of the finches, penguins and tortoises who share the islands with them.
“We have to put in practice the lesson of our history,” she said. “We have to adapt.”