A journey of discovery
gathered around the town of Guatuso, north of the dormant volcanic cone of Arenal. Following historical tragedies, including enforced slavery by Nicaraguan rubber barons in the late 19th century, the Maleku’s population dropped precipitously to around 250, and the community’s current population is only around 650 people, making the Maleku the smallest of Costa Rica’s indigenous groups.
Despite their numbers, they’ve been successful in protecting their culture, and Palenque Margarita’s headman, Jaquima, confirms the Maleku language is now taught at the local village school. He’s known as Elias Castro in Spanish, but prefers his Maleku moniker, translating to “someone who looks after nature” in his indigenous tongue. After a crash course in everyday Maleku — “Capi Capi” combined with a gentle tap on a friend’s shoulder translates to “Hello” — Jaquima introduces his nephew, Antu Tijinin (aka Adrian). In softly spoken English tinged with subtle humour, we’re given more insight into one of Costa Rica’s most resilient indigenous cultures.
Drums stretched tight with iguana skin are still used to communicate between Palenque Margarita, Palenque Tonjibe and Palenque El Sol — “This is our cellphone” explains Tijinin — and slender painted tubes filled with a handful of gravel are revealed as the Maleku’s secret weapon for stress relief.
Known as palos de lluvia (rainsticks), the simple but ingenious devices perfectly replicate the sound of gentle rain. “This is how I like to relax,” confirms Tijinin.
He’s also a qualified nurse and, on a leisurely stroll to Palenque Margarita’s reforestation project, explains he’s set his sights on becoming a doctor in the community. In the shaded forest, part of the Maleku’s total landholding of 3000ha, Jaquima again takes the lead, guiding us individually to plant delicate seedlings of endangered trees and further consolidate an essential project first launched in 1988.
Increased birdlife — including colourful toucans — and the recent discovery of puma footprints in the forest’s floor of leafy litter are both testament to the Maleku’s ongoing resilience in a new century.