Wellington. Easy as!
This week, US travel writer Ashley Ellington Brown is in our capital and concludes that Kiwis are a lucky bunch
Another delightful difference between Aotearoa and the US became apparent on my trip from Rotorua to Wellington. I had wanted to take the famous Northern Explorer train (from Hamilton) but it wasn’t running that day, so I settled for the nine-hour InterCity bus. I was not expecting a pleasant journey. (Long-distance bus travel in the US can be excruciating.)
Luckily, this was another happy surprise. I paid a bit extra for a Gold seat, and not only was it comfortable and at the front so I had a great view, but the friendly driver gave commentary along the way for those of us who weren’t local. Since it was a bright and clear day, I could revel in the scenery.
Gazing out the window at the rolling hills dotted with cows and sheep, I was astonished to suddenly see snow-capped peaks in the distance. My first mountain sighting. They grew larger as we got closer and then took a tea break at Taupo¯ .
What a lovely town. I walked down to the lake (past pretty Tongariro South Domain with the adorable mini-train chugging by) and soaked in the impressive vista of those mountains across the water.
Passing through more beautiful landscapes, I arrived in Wellington and my friend, Mary, drove me to her home in Upper Hutt. The next day, I took the short train ride back into the city. I loved how easy it was, and how close Wellington train station is to almost everything.
Despite a cold drizzle, I set off through historic Bolton Street Cemetery, over to the Botanic Garden, and on to the charming cafe by the rose garden. The sun was peeking through, so I got a cup of tea (and a scone, of course) and sat outside for a quick break.
Restored, I hiked up the hill and was rewarded with my first glimpse of a tu¯ ı¯, as well as incredible views of the city and surroundings. This is something that really stood out to me about New Zealand: the natural beauty in and around every city. Pretty much wherever you look you can see something stunning — whether it’s a volcanic crater, snowcapped mountains, lush hills, or that gloriously green-blue water — and get out into it.
I headed over to the quaint cable car and took the scenic ride down to Lambton Quay. As I walked along the waterfront and across the City to Sea Bridge, enjoying the eclectic atmosphere and browsing shops, I found the perfect souvenir: earrings made of iridescent pa¯ ua, overlaid with a silver koru design.
I also came across a plaque commemorating where the US Marines landed in 1942 and then left for the Pacific. I paused, paying my respects to them and to the thousands of New Zealand soldiers who fought so hard to preserve our freedom.
My friend had recommended the Ma¯ ori-owned Karaka Cafe, so I stopped there for a superb ha¯ ngı¯ lunch overlooking the lagoon. Then I meandered through town, around the Cuba Quarter, and back to the station. Easy as! (Although I love this expression, I always want to ask, easy as what?)
Once again, I had to leave some sights unseen due to limited time, like Te Papa museum and Zealandia bird sanctuary. I was beginning to realise that this wasn’t going to be a “once-ina-lifetime” trip, but rather the first of several.
For such a small country — and what seem at first to be small cities — there’s an enormous amount to do and see. I imagine it would take months to experience everything. How lucky Kiwis are to have a lifetime to explore. The following day Mary took me on one of her favorite hikes, Tane’s Track in Pa¯ kuratahi Forest. Walking quietly along the path through this ancient native growth, passing waterfalls and serenaded by birdsong, was immensely peaceful and awe-inspiring.
She told me how popular it was with mountain bikers as well, and I recalled seeing a group of men loading bikes on to the train the day before. What a gift to have such a majestic forest so close to the city and open to everyone.
Then it was time for me to move on. Mary drove me into Wellington and showed me some of her favorite neighbourhoods. After a fabulous lunch at Lola Stays cafe, it was up to the Mount Victoria lookout for more breathtaking views.
Finally, she dropped me at the ferry terminal, where I had to repack my overweight suitcase (hello, Waiheke wine!). Then I hiked up the steep ramp to board, staggering a bit under my newly heavy backpack.
I found a comfortable chair in the cosy lounge at the front of the ship, which gave me an outstanding view, and settled in with a hot cup of tea for the three-hour cruise to Picton.
I was beginning to realise that this wasn’t going to be a “once-ina-lifetime” trip, but rather the first of several.